Need 2 sided item to attach ring terminals to-Binding post?

[azibux1]

Hi all,

(This seems to be the most appropriate place to post this, if not, please can a moderator move it to the appropriate section)

I'm looking for something, a lot of people use a binding post for this task, but I've never used one and have a few questions.

Please see the image below for what this will be used for.

Now what do you think, each one will have a ring terminal (or two) bolted to the 'back' side, and a ring terminal (maybe more than 1) on the front.

My question is, is a binding post the best thing for this task?

Does the front of a binding post usually unscrew fully, to allow me to put the ring terminal over the 'post' and then screw the plastic back down to clamp it (or is it best to use an open ended 'fork' connector instead of ring terminal?)

Sounds simple but I've been stuck for a while now trying to find a suitable product to do this job and I'd appreciate any help!

Please bear in mind that the surface I'm mounting this to may be a piece of wood instead of metal, so it will need to be suitable to be mounted onto something a quite a few mm thicker than a sheet of metal.

Thanks!

 

[Taylortwocities]

What is the box for?
What voltages are we talking about here?

 

[azibux1]

What is the box for?
What voltages are we talking about here?

For powering a small electronics prototyping project

There will be 3.3v, 5v, 12v (all DC) and ground

 

[Taylortwocities]

Ah, ok

So, when you unscrew the post terminal, The insulated bit will not fully unscrew so you cannot use a ring connector.
There is a hole through the post.

You poke your wire trough the hole, wind it round the post and then tighten up.

If you must use a connector (you would need a crimping tool, or solder) then you'd need a fork type end. click

Hope this makes sense.

 

[flameport]

Does the front of a binding post usually unscrew fully, to allow me to put the ring terminal over the 'post' and then screw the plastic back down to clamp it (or is it best to use an open ended 'fork' connector instead of ring terminal?)

Most do not unscrew fully, as if they did, the top would be removed and lost on a regular basis.
Fork ended connectors would be the usual choice.

 

[azibux1]

Thanks for both replies

I have the suitable crimping tool and fork ends already so that's okay

Now just to find the correct binding posts. Do you know of any stores in the UK that will sell them (rather than online)?

Is it more a thing that you'll find in audio/hi-fi specialist shops rather than electrical hardware stores?

 

[ninjacat]

http://www.cambridgeonline.co.uk/listings/13566/

As you say you are in cambs - wonder if H Gees still exist down Mill Road.

 

[Taylortwocities]

You could try your local Maplins.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You could try your local Maplins.

Or he could try Rapid Electronics or Farnell or any of dozens of sellers on eBay and pay less than Maplin charge.

azibux - what on earth do you have against buying online?

Please see the image below for what this will be used for.

That PSU already has terminal posts on it. Where and why do you want to add more on a piece of wood? If that PSU is going inside something, why not take the terminal posts off and re-use them, and not have to buy anything?

Now what do you think, each one will have a ring terminal (or two) bolted to the 'back' side, and a ring terminal (maybe more than 1) on the front.

My question is, is a binding post the best thing for this task?

Possibly not - how often will the accessible connections at the front be removed?

Please bear in mind that the surface I'm mounting this to may be a piece of wood instead of metal, so it will need to be suitable to be mounted onto something a quite a few mm thicker than a sheet of metal.

You might struggle there - wood isn't a sheet material commonly used in electronic device construction.

 

[azibux1]

You could try your local Maplins.

Or he could try Rapid Electronics or Farnell or any of dozens of sellers on eBay and pay less than Maplin charge.

azibux - what on earth do you have against buying online?

Nothing against online at all, that will probably be what I do anyway as nearest maplin is a bit too far. I was just seeing if I could get them in a local to me to save having to wait for them to arrive.

Please see the image below for what this will be used for.

That PSU already has terminal posts on it. Where and why do you want to add more on a piece of wood? If that PSU is going inside something, why not take the terminal posts off and re-use them, and not have to buy anything?

That picture is of what I want to build (taken from online somewhere) so isn't mine

Now what do you think, each one will have a ring terminal (or two) bolted to the 'back' side, and a ring terminal (maybe more than 1) on the front.

My question is, is a binding post the best thing for this task?

Possibly not - how often will the accessible connections at the front be removed?

I'd like it to be a non permanent solution for fixing the wires to the terminals if possible, so I think it probably is best to go with binding posts? Out of interest what would the other option be, if I was to be removing the wires less often?

Please bear in mind that the surface I'm mounting this to may be a piece of wood instead of metal, so it will need to be suitable to be mounted onto something a quite a few mm thicker than a sheet of metal.

You might struggle there - wood isn't a sheet material commonly used in electronic device construction.

Sorry, I have replied to all your questions, they're inline with the quotes as I was on my phone and couldn't easily separate all the quotes

I'll maybe have to rethink the plan then slightly and move my PSU fan to the top, replace the fan cutout with a metal plate and use that instead[/b]

 

[JohnW2]

For powering a small electronics prototyping project ... There will be 3.3v, 5v, 12v (all DC) and ground

Although tangential to your actual question, no-one seems to have commented about what you are trying to do. It looks as if you are planning to use a computer's switched mode power supply as a general-purpose PSU for the voltages you mention (something which many of us have been tempted to do, given how cheaply those PSUs can be obtained!).

As you probably know, it is likely that there will be minimum supply currents/loads below which such a PSU will not function (at all, or properly). Do I take it that you have satisfied yourself that your 'small electronics prototyping projects' will draw enough current for the PSU to function (at all, or properly)?

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Sorry, I have replied to all your questions, they're inline with the quotes as I was on my phone and couldn't easily separate all the quotes

Which probably indicates that a phone is not an appropriate device to be using.

 

[azibux1]

For powering a small electronics prototyping project ... There will be 3.3v, 5v, 12v (all DC) and ground

Although tangential to your actual question, no-one seems to have commented about what you are trying to do. It looks as if you are planning to use a computer's switched mode power supply as a general-purpose PSU for the voltages you mention (something which many of us have been tempted to do, given how cheaply those PSUs can be obtained!).

As you probably know, it is likely that there will be minimum supply currents/loads below which such a PSU will not function (at all, or properly). Do I take it that you have satisfied yourself that your 'small electronics prototyping projects' will draw enough current for the PSU to function (at all, or properly)?

Kind Regards, John

Hi John

That's exactly what I'm trying to do

I have been made aware of that. But it seems I'm getting very very steady voltages (they're not changing at all), checked with a digital multimeter, without any load on the PSU whatsoever... So I'm hoping it will be okay?

Thanks

 

[JohnW2]

Hi John, That's exactly what I'm trying to do ... I have been made aware of that. But it seems I'm getting very very steady voltages (they're not changing at all), checked with a digital multimeter, without any load on the PSU whatsoever... So I'm hoping it will be okay?

Well, it will presumably vary from PSU to PSU but all I can do is wish you luck! I have to say that my personal experiences of trying to do it (admittedly not in the last few years) have not been particularly happy ones.

Kind Regards, John

 

[azibux1]

]
Well, it will presumably vary from PSU to PSU but all I can do is wish you luck! I have to say that my personal experiences of trying to do it (admittedly not in the last few years) have not been particularly happy ones.

Kind Regards, John

Hmm, I'll have to keep a close eye on voltages

Thanks for the heads-up