Need a Straight Forward System to takle the "So called Rising Damp?"

I've said what to do many times in the thread. Given various options aswell.

The issue is the walls cannot breath with what's been coated on them over the years.

If he is going to replaster the walls he should follow the below.

View attachment 249942

If he is going to board the walls with plaster board he needs to attaché them so the damp does not trace into the board, and leave an air gap around the bottom and make sure air can flow up from beneath the floor boards behind the plaster board.

He could just fit a water proofing membrane, but this would just be masking the problem and not actually fixing it.

He's already said he is likely going to install a chemical dpc himself.
Thats a important point, to make sure air passes beneath floor to behind boards. Nice one, ill drill some holes.
 
Last edited:
Sponsored Links
One last question,
If you were me, not a plasterer, but competent to patch up & do a wall or two. Would you board or render with a lime mix? Obviously cost comes into it also, and i wont be as fast as you plastering
 
Last edited:
One last question,
If you were me, not a plasterer, but competent to patch up & do a wall or two. Would you board or render with a lime mix? Obviously cost comes into it also, and i wont be as fast as you plastering

I would probably board.

Need to make sure that the damp cannot bridge across into the plaster board
 
Thats exactly what i want fella. Thanks alot. I dont want to have to explain why its failed, after ive said to my Custard.."Im gonna use this additive & that damp proof system, and this is what to expect".
Imagine in 6 months time for him to call? lol. Guaranteed if i got a call, id know straight away, when his name pops up..."Ohh crap" lol".
Ok yeh i read that earlier on your comment about paint. I read last night not to use acrylic based paint but i never new about clay. Its new to me. What other uses does clay have? Or is it specific to damp ? Maybe.

Clay paint is specific to old buildings to allow them to breath

Although it can be used any where
 
Sponsored Links
OP why not have a look at this site, davidkinsey.co.uk/salts? i dont agree with a lot of his stuff but he has experence and some good things to say.

all the black soot covered or soot tinged bricks have tobe removed from the fireplace.replace with fresh bricks if needed. a safety issue isthere looks like a gas Restrictor elbow in the rubble on the right of the raised hearth. read recent posts in plumbing forumabout redundant gas installations.

pics of the front door and its surroundand the front elevation from ground to eaves would help..

theres a few more biits and pieces but for now ...
 
OP why not have a look at this site, davidkinsey.co.uk/salts? i dont agree with a lot of his stuff but he has experence and some good things to say.

all the black soot covered or soot tinged bricks have tobe removed from the fireplace.replace with fresh bricks if needed. a safety issue isthere looks like a gas Restrictor elbow in the rubble on the right of the raised hearth. read recent posts in plumbing forumabout redundant gas installations.

pics of the front door and its surroundand the front elevation from ground to eaves would help..

theres a few more biits and pieces but for now ...
some very good things to check, thanks
What are you thinking, regarding eaves?
 
tell80......That blog was great. If its true, he totally screws my plans up,lol. only saving grace is im using plasterboards with the cream daabs containing additives. Itll go bad slower than wet plaster finishes for sure
 
If you go plasterboard then use damp resisting adhesive but dont go mixing anything with it - best for me is to not use plasterboard but, after removing all trim and skirting, hack off to bricks from floor to ? and render with a sand and NH lime render.
Thats the go to solution in damp work nowadays so dont ever use any gypsum plaster for dampwork.
Leave the bricks for a drying out period if possible and then go on to clean brickwork with the sand and lime only render

Ground to eaves pics gives the full elevation picture.
I dont have a an idea of your floor plan or how the neighbours could be affected?
Lack of a membrane under the solid floors is probably a big cause of your damp
The above, thats what works for me but other guys might do it different.
 
Skill Builder had an interesting take on it.

When these houses were built everyone had a proper fire under the chimney and there were draughts through the doors and windows.

Sealing it all up and moving to central heating stops the moisture evaporating.
 
Skill Builder had an interesting take on it.

When these houses were built everyone had a proper fire under the chimney and there were draughts through the doors and windows.

Sealing it all up and moving to central heating stops the moisture evaporating.
yes thats bang on
 
So all comments have greatly improved my understanding of so called "Rising Damp"
And its really opened my eyes. As alot of you experienced trades have said, "Rising Damp" is widely mis-diagnosed. So like i have now done.....Finding then sorting the issues relating to why there are damp walls in first place. Comes down to no ventilation & blocked air bricks or building fabric damage.

I now need adheasive to fit plasterboards. DRYZONE sell a system consisting of a cream to paint on walls. Then tubes of board adheasive containing a salt and damp-resistant additive.
Can i use normal board adheasive ? And add chemicals myself?
 
na. pb adhesive soaks water up like a sponge.
Understood yes. I was aware of that, as ive seen Custard's home's where Dab's show through plasterboard because like you say, they act like a "Water Highway" Guaranteed to transfer damp to plasterbord face.
But ive based my approach on ridding the damp on some experience & also alot of comments from you guys.
The DRYZONE Replastering system looks good, and they sell aluminium tubes of a adheasive that dont transfer the salts.
Im interested in using normal Dab where i put additives in it. Someone will have done it before. Surely DRYZONE'S will be adheasive with salt gear in it surely
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top