Need advice on joists in the attic

[scousespark]

Deluks,

The room is 20' wide and 26' long (split into 2x13' by a load bearing wall).

Is it possible (and legal) to run joists acroos the room instead of parralel to the existing joists. These are nowhere near level.

What size joists should be fitted either parralel to existing or acroos the room.

I know a lot of people say this on the forum, but I have no intention of doing this myself. I'm a spark and wouldn't dream of tackling a job which could make the structure of my house unsafe. I just want some idea of what's involved.

 

[Deluks]

It doesn't matter how level the existing joists are, The new ones would be sitting on the loadbearing walls and will be higher than existing anyway.

Makes sense to use the shortest available span which from your description is 13' .

Of course none of this means that you won't need steel in there somewhere.

 

[dx90]

What I've decided to do is acro prop the ceiling/floor in loft up straight to take out the sag and put some steel straps from each joist to the pearling to keep it there. Then I’m going to put some new plained red wood 4x3” 13 feet long from the main bearing wall to wall plate at 90 degrees to them and fix a coach screw down through the new to old joist on every joist to tie them all together. Its only going to be for storage now.

My question is will a no 8x150mm long coach screw go through into the old joist far enough to give good grip?

 

[Deluks]

What I've decided to do is acro prop the ceiling/floor in loft up straight to take out the sag and put some steel straps from each joist to the pearling to keep it there. Then I’m going to put some new plained red wood 4x3” 13 feet long from the main bearing wall to wall plate at 90 degrees to them and fix a coach screw down through the new to old joist on every joist to tie them all together. Its only going to be for storage now.

My question is will a no 8x150mm long coach screw go through into the old joist far enough to give good grip?

Durrrrrr!

 

[dx90]

There are two pearlings evenly spaced down the roof timbers running out of the apex wall and running all around the roof and back into the apex wall again. The bottom of the two pearlings have a vertical strut half way along each side down onto the main bearing walls. I don't have any binders at all. The house was built in 1920. The straps will only take the weight of the ceiling until I put the 4x3" joists across at 90 degrees. These will rest on the other wall plate and the other main bearing wall and then will be screwed at every cross over to strengthen the new floor and the old one and take the weight back off the pearling.
I have to use the 4x3" timbers as they are ordered and arrive tomorrow. The new timbers are 4x3" @ 4.8m long.

Do you think this will work ok?

 

[Deluks]

Ok forget that last post, I was replying to you thinking you were Scousespark.

 

[scousespark]

Deluks,

Thanks for your help. I've been in touch with a structural engineer who is going to do the calcs. I did say I have no intention of doing this work myself and DX90 was talking a foreign language in his posts

 

[dx90]

SCOUSESPARK, I don't know what the hell your talking about that I'm talking in a foreign language in my posts.

SCOUSESPARK if you stop highjacking other peoples post then there wouldn't be any confussion in the first place!

Thanks all for your help. Jobs underway.

 

[scousespark]

First off don't shout at me.
I asked a sensible question, which Deluks answered, which was similar to yours. Read the forum and you'll see that happens all the time. It's a discussion forum not a tutorial.

Deluks had posted Durr to your post describing what you are doing, as he thought it was my post. All I meant was talking of pearlings and steel strappers is like a foreign language. I was being friendly, not slagging you off.

___________________________

Moderater 3

Forum rules 20

 

[dx90]

When I saw that you put my name in capitals (shouting) I thought you were being funny not friendly.

Alls well that ends well.