Need to do a bodge job on CH

[Big G]

I need to remove the pipe-work above floor level to a radiator in our lounge. Normally, I’d drain the system, cut the pipes under floor and put two end stops on – maybe even put some in-line valves a bit before the end caps so that when I come to put a new radiator in place, I don’t need to drain down again.

Problem is, our heating system is like something out of The Ark. The hot water is gravity fed but the primary pipework is in 22mm (should be 28mm apparently). It also has a long lateral leg before the cylinder – the overall result is that it airlocks quite often. It’s currently working fine and I don’t want to upset the Status Quo.

Am I able to, on the existing pipework to the radiator in the lounge (under the floor), use some tool to nip/squash the pipe together, cut it a foot or so away, stick an end cap on and Bob’s yer Uncle? Or is there a better temporary job? The pipe is 15mm copper and looks like it came off a roll (it’s not in the usual 2 or 3 metre lengths that you purchase at Wickes). Oh, finally, if the above is OK to do, what would be the best thing to use to nip the pipe?

Any advice would be gratefully received.


Gordon

 

[ChrisR]

Freeze the pipes and use full flow ball valves to shut them off, unless you want to freeze them again later. Cheap little isolating valves usually leak on ch. Careful with that 15mm pipe - it'll be soft copper.

You can try "air locking" the pipes with special bungs you block the pipes with in the loft, but it doesn't always work.

 

[cross thread]

DONT TRY THE BUNG MEATHOD IF IT IS A PRIMATIC CYLINDER!!!

 

[Nige F]

I need to remove the pipe-work above floor level to a radiator in our lounge. Normally, I’d drain the system, and I don’t want to upset the Status Quo.



Any advice would be gratefully received.


Gordon

Whatever you want Whatever you like You pays yer money and takes yer choice Rockin allover the world. I`m too polite to quote Jilted John

 

[fitz1]

if ur cool and confident , pipeslice and fit valves in 10 seconds.theres not a lot of pressure on ur system so u could snatch it. if ur a panicker dont try this at home.

 

[Big G]

Whatever you want Whatever you like You pays yer money and takes yer choice Rockin allover the world. I`m too polite to quote Jilted John

Quite – never mind, “We’re only making plans for Nigel”.

Back on subject. As I see it, I’ve got two options. I could try the bung method, however, the pipes that I’ll be cutting are horizontal so are more likely to let air in on that leg. May try that together with the 'do it quick' method.

If I choose to use a freezing aerosol kit, are they safe to use under floors? The ‘room’ I’ll be working in is about 4 foot wide by 12 foot by between 3 and six foot deep. I had a look at the disposable freezing kits in Wickes last night and it said to ensure the area was well ventilated.


Cheers

G

 

[darren17]

if you want a quick fix then get yourself a heavy duty bin liner put it under the pipe and cut it with a pipe slice and slap on a push fit stop ends
simply job

 

[Tibbot]

if you want a quick fix

If that's at all possible after almost 4 years.

 

[hym]

Snatch the system,,,nice. Remind me never to employ you.

 

[Agile]

A professional can often do a very quick snatch.

I sent a trainee at 1120 pm to the 7th floor of an 11 floor block with a communal heating system.

The flat owner had a leakign rad and although he could catch the leak in a saucepan he would have needed to stay awake all night and he was quite elderly. The rad valve was letting by and needed changing to solve the problem.

I had not previously trained him in snatching so I had to give him a crash course. Armed with lots of towels he did the job and thought he only spilt about 3-4 litres. Bearing in mind the pressure would have been about 2 Bar I thought that was very well done.

He later perfected the technique so that with an assistant and an Aquavac he would change rad valves without draining down.

Tony