Do you mean Ogee and parting bead?
Need to fit architrave on uneven door frames - what tool?
- Thread starter Sharpey
- Start date
Do you mean Ogee and parting bead?
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No ogee and bead looks like this http://www.ezeebuild.co.uk/resource/products/2635/88411d73.jpg
Or just an ogee https://www.wrp-timber-mouldings.co.uk/moulding/60/in_cat/architraves
Or just an ogee https://www.wrp-timber-mouldings.co.uk/moulding/60/in_cat/architraves
I see, yeah it's just regular Ogee, off set by some parting bead because the plaster sits out a little from the door frame.
I might have a look in to doing it this way then, as it could make it a lot easier. Would it matter if on one side the block was shortened? On two edges the architrave will have to be reduced in width because of the proximity of the wall, so the block would have to be cut down as well.
I might have a look in to doing it this way then, as it could make it a lot easier. Would it matter if on one side the block was shortened? On two edges the architrave will have to be reduced in width because of the proximity of the wall, so the block would have to be cut down as well.
If using blocks to join just have the slightly thicker than the facing and skirting material say 4mm
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Yep and any discrepancy will not show also here is a couple of videos show how skirting is done and marked out ignore the saw it's more the hand tools hand saw and coping saw are used to follow your profile after doing the mitre for the internal corner. Then you will see the back of the skirting being marked this gives you your short point on your skirting http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LKlM9NIClo
And this is the external getting done http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7g6cRwY3OGQ the trick is to mark the way you want the mitres to go
And this is the external getting done http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7g6cRwY3OGQ the trick is to mark the way you want the mitres to go
Does anyone know who I would contact if I wanted custom corner blocks made up? I went to a local DIY shop and they said they could machine some for me but I would have to wait a couple of weeks.
Would it just be a timber merchants or someone else?
Would it just be a timber merchants or someone else?
Fitting a mitre corner to architraves (45 deg or otherwise) on site, couldn't be easier. When I was joinering we had little in the way of mitre saws, electronic angle finders and the like, we simply had skill.
To bisect the angle i.e. find the correct line(s) of cut/plane, simply hold the leg of your architrave up to the door post, a couple of stitch pins/finishing nails to hold in place at whatever relief you want showing at the post and and architrave edges, mark the top width of the architrave (at the header location) both sides, onto the post/wall. Take this leg away and offer up your header piece of architrave, same relief as the leg showed and mark the intersecting lines, again on post and wall. You will now have two intersecting lines defining both the inner and outer edges of both, connect the outer highest leg point intersection with the inner header intersection point and you now have the correct angle. Offer back up the leg (still with stitching pins sticking out the back surface) to the position it was in to begin the marking, and transfer both the the outer and inner points from the post/wall to the architrave leg and proceed to join them up with a line on the face of the architrave. This is the bit that challenges, if your architraves have a radius or chamfer on the edge you must look down on the face perpendicular, and see the transferred marks at the same time, draw these up the sides of the architrave very carefully ensuring they follow the curves/chamfers at a good representation of correct flow, when these lines reach the face of the architrave join them up across it to give your cutting/planing line, which might not be a precise 45 deg, but it's correct note - no angle tools used, no measuring and the reason for developing the marks to the face is to allow the cut to to be down from the face and the saw break out to be on the hidden reverse face ...pinenot
To bisect the angle i.e. find the correct line(s) of cut/plane, simply hold the leg of your architrave up to the door post, a couple of stitch pins/finishing nails to hold in place at whatever relief you want showing at the post and and architrave edges, mark the top width of the architrave (at the header location) both sides, onto the post/wall. Take this leg away and offer up your header piece of architrave, same relief as the leg showed and mark the intersecting lines, again on post and wall. You will now have two intersecting lines defining both the inner and outer edges of both, connect the outer highest leg point intersection with the inner header intersection point and you now have the correct angle. Offer back up the leg (still with stitching pins sticking out the back surface) to the position it was in to begin the marking, and transfer both the the outer and inner points from the post/wall to the architrave leg and proceed to join them up with a line on the face of the architrave. This is the bit that challenges, if your architraves have a radius or chamfer on the edge you must look down on the face perpendicular, and see the transferred marks at the same time, draw these up the sides of the architrave very carefully ensuring they follow the curves/chamfers at a good representation of correct flow, when these lines reach the face of the architrave join them up across it to give your cutting/planing line, which might not be a precise 45 deg, but it's correct note - no angle tools used, no measuring and the reason for developing the marks to the face is to allow the cut to to be down from the face and the saw break out to be on the hidden reverse face ...pinenot
That's a cracking post pinenot, probably the clearest guide I've managed to find on the net. Really appreciate it.
I think I might still go for corner blocks as the look is actually pretty smart, but if i can't find the exact size I want I'm a lot more confident about getting the job done now. Thanks for the help
I think I might still go for corner blocks as the look is actually pretty smart, but if i can't find the exact size I want I'm a lot more confident about getting the job done now. Thanks for the help
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