I was wondering if anyone could tell me how i can change my downlights without damaging the plaster in my ceiling. The problem is, is that I cannot access the two springs. I need to change the unit so I have NO other options.
Need to remove downlights
- Thread starter TonyPhotoplus
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very carefully....
If space allows, once you have the fitting down a bit you can use a screwdriver to push the wings back.
Or just get your tub of filler out
Good luck
SB
If space allows, once you have the fitting down a bit you can use a screwdriver to push the wings back.
Or just get your tub of filler out
Good luck
SB
Thanks for the reply. We moved here in Jan and it seems the house has had work done by a bodgers anonymous. Its bloody frustrating and on close inspection it seems they have cemented the dam thing in with chalk! So I have no options left other than to rip it down. I then have no idea how I am going to secure the replacement though! I hate all the legislation this government has brought in to stop DIY but after seeing this mans work I can understand. The amazing thing is he is high up in the forces looking after the countries security. God help us all. In fact he has violated every guarantee there is suppose to and no one will come and repair the faults. Being on benefits and 300mg morphine a day I am stuck with his bodging for years to come
If the downlights have been beaded with caulk, that would suggest that the hole may have been cut slightly too big prior to install.
I would break the caulk seal around the fittings, then pull the body of the downlight down, once you have got the downlight free from the hole, you can squeeze the springs back, so it comes out with less hassle!
When replacing new, I would suggest measuring the hole and find downlights that require the hole size or you can purchase "Hole Converter Plates" that cover excessive holes. If not you will need to repair hole and re-cut.
I would break the caulk seal around the fittings, then pull the body of the downlight down, once you have got the downlight free from the hole, you can squeeze the springs back, so it comes out with less hassle!
When replacing new, I would suggest measuring the hole and find downlights that require the hole size or you can purchase "Hole Converter Plates" that cover excessive holes. If not you will need to repair hole and re-cut.
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I didn't know there was such a thing as a "Hole Converter Plates" ? That would resolve many of the lighting problem. The kitchen lights were also put in wrong and that would resolve my problem. Thank you
Don't worry - the Govt will sort that out.
They'll get you off benefits - see if they don't.
How I do it-
Check fitting for any filler, mastic or painting that has sealed it on. Remove any seal with a stanley knife or sharp blade.
Wiggle the fitting a bit to make sure it's unstuck. Then get a strong flat wide blade such as a filling knife, a metal ruler or such (I've done it with tea spoons before). Use that to wedge between the plaster board and the inside of the fitting lip. Fulcrum action.
You should now have the fitting slightly away from the ceiling, maybe 10mm on one side, now do the same action 180 deg away making sure that as you pull that side of the fitting down the other side doesn't just fall back in towards the ceiling (the natural action of the retaining springs tends to make the fitting want to do this).
Now you should have a big enough gap all round the fitting to get your fingers on the damn thing.
In a gentle, firm motion pull one side 10mm, then the other side 10mm, at this point the springs should be offering less resistance (because they have been force towards the sides of the fitting /towards vertical) and you either repeat the pull on one side then the other, or pull the whole thing downward and out.
If you damage the plasterboard doing so (often the springs cut into plasterboard), make a hardboard polo mint with the inner hole to match the fitting spec. Cut in half, butter with no nails and place in position inside the ceiling.
Once set, fill to surface, once dry sand down and shape to the polo mint template. The template will provide a element of firmness that filler can't and allow the replacement and occasional removal of the fitting without damaging the ceiling in future.
Hope that makes sense, and if you are on heavy meds please don't use ladders or go near power on the meds. Hope you get better, or at least have good days.
Check fitting for any filler, mastic or painting that has sealed it on. Remove any seal with a stanley knife or sharp blade.
Wiggle the fitting a bit to make sure it's unstuck. Then get a strong flat wide blade such as a filling knife, a metal ruler or such (I've done it with tea spoons before). Use that to wedge between the plaster board and the inside of the fitting lip. Fulcrum action.
You should now have the fitting slightly away from the ceiling, maybe 10mm on one side, now do the same action 180 deg away making sure that as you pull that side of the fitting down the other side doesn't just fall back in towards the ceiling (the natural action of the retaining springs tends to make the fitting want to do this).
Now you should have a big enough gap all round the fitting to get your fingers on the damn thing.
In a gentle, firm motion pull one side 10mm, then the other side 10mm, at this point the springs should be offering less resistance (because they have been force towards the sides of the fitting /towards vertical) and you either repeat the pull on one side then the other, or pull the whole thing downward and out.
If you damage the plasterboard doing so (often the springs cut into plasterboard), make a hardboard polo mint with the inner hole to match the fitting spec. Cut in half, butter with no nails and place in position inside the ceiling.
Once set, fill to surface, once dry sand down and shape to the polo mint template. The template will provide a element of firmness that filler can't and allow the replacement and occasional removal of the fitting without damaging the ceiling in future.
Hope that makes sense, and if you are on heavy meds please don't use ladders or go near power on the meds. Hope you get better, or at least have good days.
Thanks for the great advice. As for getting better I doubt that as I have been on Morphine for too long. Thanks for the concern
Another possibility is to remove the lamp (bulb) and on many downlights, the end of the springs can be seen inside the fitting, clipped in place between two metal tabs.
Use long nose pliers to release the spring from the tabs. The spring will probably fly off into the roof void somewhere, but if replacing the fitting this won't matter.
You can then remove the fitting without the issue of the springs causing damage.
Use long nose pliers to release the spring from the tabs. The spring will probably fly off into the roof void somewhere, but if replacing the fitting this won't matter.
You can then remove the fitting without the issue of the springs causing damage.
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