Neighbours

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Anyone any idea why in places it seems I can here every word my neighbours are saying? Seems to be worse in certain spots. I've never had a problem like this in any house I've lived in before. I thought with it being an older solid house that noise from neighbours would be no issue at all

It's a double brick party wall but double width of a brick not length. No cavity either just solid brick. Is it poor workmanship? Cheap materials? The fact theirs no cavity? Some expert advice would be appreciated
 
Timber transmits sound very efficiently, have you checked where the joists sit in the wall (assuming they go side to side).

Blup
 
The joists run parallel to the wall. So I know it isn't that. And the first timber is sat about half an inch away from the wall. My guess is it's because their is no cavity in the wall?
 
The walls are plastered both sides but i was thinking will the soundcoat plus plaster make a difference because that should fill any air gaps in the mortar or well it should at least make the wall airtight
 
It's hard to pick a solution when theirs so many options. The green glue method, genie clips, resilient bar, building a stud wall. Some more expensive than others. I don't want to over invest for not much difference but I want it to work. Finding acoustic specialists is very hard work and well not exactly cheap either. These things should be checked and tested on house surveys in this day and age
 
The only way to fill any open joints in brickwork is to fill them with mortar but you can't do that of course unless you remove the plaster. New houses are checked but you can't expect the same standards to apply to older houses. Houses built only 20 years ago weren't built to the same standards as today.
Have a look at British Gypsum Homespec book ,I think it is , for ways of upgrading soundproofing of existing walls.
p.s. what do you mean by soundcoat ?
 
Thanks for suggesting that book. I will look into it. Soundcoat plus is a plaster by British gypsum but it's more like a render. It's suppose to be air tight once it's applied which I'm guessing normal multifinish plaster isn't
 
The joists run parallel to the wall. So I know it isn't that. And the first timber is sat about half an inch away from the wall. My guess is it's because their is no cavity in the wall?
In which case you need a cavity. studwork with a cavity gap and clad with plasterboard, double layer of acoustic perhaps with staggered joints.

High frequency sounds get through gaps and are fairly easily stopped, lower frequency noises travel through solid material and only dense material physically isolated stops them.
 
So build a partition and inch from the wall with nothing touching the back wall. Creating a cavity. Use acoustic insulation slabs in the gaps and double board?
 
So build a partition and inch from the wall with nothing touching the back wall. Creating a cavity. Use acoustic insulation slabs in the gaps and double board?

Yes, something like that -if the sound is coming through the wall.

Leave a clear cavity, but fill in between the studs and clad with plasterboard -if you can afford to lose the 6" or whatever it will take up.

The connections the studwork has to the floor. walls and ceiling need detailing correctly to avoid transferring any sound into the new wall.

I imagine the cost of doing that would be less than getting a consultant out to write a report....
 
I've reckoned up a 10mm or maybe up to an inch gap, 3x2 timber. I've heard tin is better for sound but I'm worried about the weight whereas timber is more sturdy and solid. 50mm acoustic insulation batts, resilient bar, then double boarded. Seal around the edges with acoustic sealant. I reckon we will lose about 5 inch. Two are alcoves which to be honest I'm not fussed about the space loss. Bit gutted about the back room tho
 

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