NETAHEAT Profile 60e - which boiler is this? Is it safe?

[Tony Kay]

Hi, I recently moved to a 1930's house and have inherited a more than 20 years old boiler (I come across a paper of its service from 1995!). It is NETAHEAT Profile 60e (please see the attached picture). Normally boilers these days don't last 5-6 years, and this seems really very old. Could someone in the know please help with some information on this!?

1. Is it SAFE to carry on using this boiler?
2. Is it one of those 'old is gold' type boilers that might be worth keeping?
3, I have no clue if this can be or should be serviced but I know the seller of this house didn't get it serviced for 7 years (basically the duration of their ownership of this house.)
I guess it might even be difficult to find people having knowledge of this old model of boilers, and spares may be hard to find?

I must admit that I expected the performance of this boiler to be quite poor but it seems to be rather efficient at heating the house full blast in a very short amount of time! I don't want to spend money on a new boiler if it can be avoided. I was thinking of getting a MagnaClean device installed to keep the sludge etc out and fill the central heating with inhibitor (MC3+/X400) after getting it drained / cleaned.

Can anyone please help with any information how to deal with this boiler situation?

Many thanks!
Tony

 

[Dan Robinson]

boilers these days don't last 5-6 years

Rubbish.

if this can be or should be serviced

You should.


But, a few annoying quirks aside they are fundamentally good boilers if looked after.

As for efficient?

 

[Gasman28]

1. Is it SAFE to carry on using this boiler?

Without being there, no-one can answer that question

2. Is it one of those 'old is gold' type boilers that might be worth keeping?

Possibly, that could only be determined after a full service / safety checks

3, I have no clue if this can be or should be serviced but I know the seller of this house didn't get it serviced for 7 years (basically the duration of their ownership of this house.)
I guess it might even be difficult to find people having knowledge of this old model of boilers, and spares may be hard to find?

It should be serviced every 12 months and you should find a good RGI that is familiar with this boiler. Spares are getting less, but some are still available.

I must admit that I expected the performance of this boiler to be quite poor but it seems to be rather efficient at heating the house full blast in a very short amount of time! I don't want to spend money on a new boiler if it can be avoided. I was thinking of getting a MagnaClean device installed to keep the sludge etc out and fill the central heating with inhibitor (MC3+/X400) after getting it drained / cleaned.

It's probably about 65% efficient? as opposed to a modern boilers 90%, so the choice is yours. Having the system cleaned and a filter fitted is a good idea.
As Dan said, most modern boilers last longer than 5 years.

 

[picasso]

The netaheat was around 78% efficient so pretty good for a boiler more than 20 years old.

 

[Razor900]

Can't see properly on the phone but is that a rust trail from a furred up doc running down the back corner?

It deffo needs to be serviced, they will check the case integrity at the same time

 

[JohnD]

I had one of these in a previous house. They seem well thought-of and were quite advanced when new. It may get quite noisy, but you can give the system a DIY chemical clean at negligible cost, and a filter will reduce the chance of future blockages. I got a lot of sludge and sediment out of mine. It probably has a feed and expansion tank in the loft, bale out any mud from this and sponge it clean before adding chemicals. A powerflush would be better but will cost a lot more.

IIRC the casing forms the gas-tight seal so you should not try to take it off yourself. On mine, the fan became noisy due to age and the bearings wearing. I don't think a new part was available but there are used or reconditioned ones and it must be possible to lubricate or fit new bearings. It is inside the case. The noise is easy to recognise. The local gasman seemed to like it and thought I should keep it going.

If yours is sufficient to heat the house and hot water, and is found to be in safe and serviceable condition, the cost of change will be quite a lot more than you will save in gas costs due to improved efficiency. You may want to improve insulation of the hot pipes and cylinder, which are probably not up to standard.

 

[75pete]

Get it serviced and i would keep it.

 

[Tony Kay]

Thanks Dan_Robinson, my experience of new boilers has not been that great and I had issues with two new boilers over last 10 years or so.

If a new boiler saves me on average £20 every month, new boiler's cost will take long time to recover?

Thanks Gasman28, I have found a GSI online and will give him a call as first thing tomorrow to arrange view / service.

Thanks Picasso, it is my guess too that this boiler may serve us well, if it is serviced.

Hi Razor900, I will get is serviced ASAP. Not sure if there is rust on the paper but it very old dusty kit.

Thanks JohnD for sharing your experience, it is indeed noisier than the newer boilers. It does has a feed and expansion tank in the loft and will have to be cleaned.

1. I wonder how much can a power flush cost for a 2 bed semi house with 8 radiators?

2. I will have to look at how to improve the insulation of hot pipes and cylinder. I've seen likes of B&Q have insulating covers for water pipes.

By the way I am also going to get a water softener installed, so all the boiler and central heating will be free from limescale.

Thanks 75Pete, my first attempt will be at keeping it - need to find someone who knows how to service it - let me try the GSI guy.

 

[Dan Robinson]

my experience of new boilers has not been that great and I had issues with two new boilers over last 10 years or so.

My experience is more than yours

 

[45yearsagasman]

By the way I am also going to get a water softener installed, so all the boiler and central heating will be free from limescale.

I'm afraid it won't. A water softener has no effect on a standard system such as yours.

 

[75pete]

As for a power flush, well, I would drain system then remove each rad and wash out until clean. Clean the FE tank refill + Inhibiter. The above assumes that your rad are working ok, no real bad cold spots. This boiler has a drain right at the front that you might be able to remove, would need to isolate and cover the electrical parts, arrange a run off once the plug is removed, do this before adding the Inhibiter. I need to add that if the boiler case cover is removed, you need to ensure that the case seal is in first class condition as this type of boiler is of a positive pressure type and a damage seal would allow gas out and into the house, so a Gas Safe inspection will be necessary.

 

[ronco]

1. Is it SAFE to carry on using this boiler?

Without being there, no-one can answer that question

2. Is it one of those 'old is gold' type boilers that might be worth keeping?

Possibly, that could only be determined after a full service / safety checks

3, I have no clue if this can be or should be serviced but I know the seller of this house didn't get it serviced for 7 years (basically the duration of their ownership of this house.)
I guess it might even be difficult to find people having knowledge of this old model of boilers, and spares may be hard to find?

It should be serviced every 12 months and you should find a good RGI that is familiar with this boiler. Spares are getting less, but some are still available.

I must admit that I expected the performance of this boiler to be quite poor but it seems to be rather efficient at heating the house full blast in a very short amount of time! I don't want to spend money on a new boiler if it can be avoided. I was thinking of getting a MagnaClean device installed to keep the sludge etc out and fill the central heating with inhibitor (MC3+/X400) after getting it drained / cleaned.

It's probably about 65% efficient? as opposed to a modern boilers 90%, so the choice is yours. Having the system cleaned and a filter fitted is a good idea.
As Dan said, most modern boilers last longer than 5 years.

good old workhorse keep it

 

[Tony Kay]

my experience of new boilers has not been that great and I had issues with two new boilers over last 10 years or so.

My experience is more than yours

Hi Dan, sorry if I sounded to offend in any way, I didn't mean to at all. I accept my mistake, I probably understated the life expectancy of new boilers as my 'personal' experience was quite bad. Professionals like you surely know better. The good news if I have found a GasSafe engineer to work on the system - do the service, powerflush, fill with MC3+ cleaner and install the magnaclean + add MC1+ inhibitor. Hopefully winters will be nice and comfy with boiler working properly!

 

[Tony Kay]

By the way I am also going to get a water softener installed, so all the boiler and central heating will be free from limescale.

I'm afraid it won't. A water softener has no effect on a standard system such as yours.

Hi 45yearsagasman, nice name - says it all

It is surprising to hear that water softner won't benefit much the standard heating system, probably there is already too much sludge etc going in an old system that is exposed to air / oxygen.

I will install the 'water2buy' water softner anyway for the whole house, so the washing machine, dish washer, shower water and hopefully the hot water tank (electric immersion heater tank in the 1st floor cupboard) should all benefit. I also heard the softened water feels better (great?) for shower.

By the way I have a question - I have noticed the hot water from my washbasin tap / kitchen sink tap tastes funny. Someone suggested that this is the taste because of excessive limescale deposit inside the water heating cylinder. I find it hard to describe the taste but I hope it is something common / well known.

Will it help to open the immersion heating tank (picture attached) and clear out the limescale? Is there some chemical that could 'dissolve' the limescale and flush it out, without damaging the immersion coil? Is there any other suggested remedy?

 

[Tony Kay]

As for a power flush, well, I would drain system then remove each rad and wash out until clean. Clean the FE tank refill + Inhibiter. The above assumes that your rad are working ok, no real bad cold spots. This boiler has a drain right at the front that you might be able to remove, would need to isolate and cover the electrical parts, arrange a run off once the plug is removed, do this before adding the Inhibiter. I need to add that if the boiler case cover is removed, you need to ensure that the case seal is in first class condition as this type of boiler is of a positive pressure type and a damage seal would allow gas out and into the house, so a Gas Safe inspection will be necessary.

Hi 75pete, I have got in touch with a gassafe engineer who is fortunately already familiar with this 'classical' boiler model! He will service the system, install MagnaClean pro2 and also do powerflush.
I don't know for sure how exactly powerflush will be done and if the individual radiators will be taken off. We discussed about draining the system, followed by powerflush and then fit MagnaClean kit (picture attached) fill it with ADEY MC3+ cleaner and leave it to dissolve the bad stuff. After 1 week, we will again drain the system (is it needed? I guess MC3+ needs to come out) and fill it again with MC1+ inhibitor. After this I will keep an eye on the MagnaClean filter and keep cleaning it every 1 month in winters - peak season and couple of months during off season.

I have an infrared contactless thermometer which is great for checking surface tempratures - I used it on alloy wheels / brakes. I will use it not to check the radiators exact tempratures and cold spots.

By the way the gas engineer said as the heating system has a thermostat (near to maindoor) which is for the whole system, we CAN NOT install Thermostatic radiator valve on individual radiators. He said only way to control individual radiator temperature is by manually changing the setting of some value on each radiator.