New Bathroom

Joined
22 Nov 2006
Messages
160
Reaction score
1
Location
Berkshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi,
I have looked through other threads, but looking for a bit of advice please if I post. I am fitting a new bathroom, two of the walls have plaster board with a cardboard sandwich in between, where there are bedrooms on the other side of each of these walls. Another wall (brick) has plasterboard stuck on the brick. I would like to tile all the walls. Would I be best to build a frame and then fit ply and then tile? I was also planning to replace the current chipboard floor with 18mm ply and then tile it, is that ok? I also was the planning to extend the bathroom onto the landing and build a cubicle for a shower. The plan was to use aquapanel to line the shower cubicle and then tile. Would I fit the tray and then fit the aquapanel so it overlaps the tray or fit the aquapanel to the framework and then the tray tight to the aquapanel? Thanks in advance
 
Sponsored Links
I think I know the type of property that you have, and you can tile onto the plasterboard, but I'm not sure how you'd fit the aquapanel to them, and I'm not sure if building a frame is a good idea, partially because you'll bite into the room to make it, and you'll have trouble fixing it to the ceiling.

Do you have 18mm or 22mm chipboard, as you'll replace like for like. Alternatively, screw 6mm ply to the chipboard making sure you get into the joists.
 
Do you have 18mm or 22mm chipboard, as you'll replace like for like. Alternatively, screw 6mm ply to the chipboard making sure you get into the joists.

You sure on that? 6mm ply = no good. It deflects. Chipboard = no good (especially the waxed stuff) as it also deflects and usually doesn't bond unless using at least an S2 class (BAL Single Part Fastflex is the only one I've ever used)

Rip the chipboard up if possible and fix Hardibacker board to the floor. 6mm Hardiebacker will do the job perfectly. Just don't tile on top of the chipboard and stay well away from ply that isn't at least 18mm. If you choose to go down the plywood route then make sure it is suitable for the area it's going in (i.e WBP) and SBR the back and sides to prevent moisture ingress.
 
You make a good point on the 6mm L95, I should have suggested 10mm screwed down at 150mm centres, but I was concerenced about raising the floor level too much. But whilst the Hardibacker is a good suggestion, if he's ripping up the chipboard, what would you suggest he then puts under the Hardibacker.
 
Sponsored Links
If I remember correctly, you can screw the HB onto the joists below. But I might be thinking about something else. You could just replace with 12 mm ply and put 6 mm Hardie over the top of that. Or just straight up 15 mm or 18mm ply with reverse and sides sealed with SBR.
 
I can see where you're coming from now. I'd go with the 18mm ply, and then fix the 6mm HB,and that should do the job.
 
I can see where you're coming from now. I'd go with the 18mm ply, and then fix the 6mm HB,and that should do the job.

Yeah I'd say 18mm would be best.

Edit: With HB of course!
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top