new boiler cost

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Hi, I`m in need of a new boiler. been quoted between £1000-£1100 fitted for an ideal logic plus 24kw. any thoughts from the experts? good/bad?. go for it/don`t touch with a bargepole?
comes with a 7 year manufacturers warranty, only stipulation is yearly service must be done.
cheers.
 
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if thats all you can afford then go for it. in the long run you always get what you pay for.
 
if thats all you can afford then go for it. in the long run you always get what you pay for.
Hi mate, does that mean it`s a poor choice of boiler? what would you recommend? do i need a boiler with an higher output? I live in an average sized pre war 3 bedroomed semi.
cheers.
 
sorry I don't know the plus, it is a combi isn't it? if yes then what size was your old boiler, since a 24kw boiler will only produce 9.5liters of hot water/min in the summer, in the about 7 or 8 liters/min. with a bath that is 25 mins to fill in the winter, if old was was 24 then you are used to it, but for a bit more money upgrade the gas pipe to 22mm and have a 28kw 13.5 liters a minute or 32kw 15 liters/min. and spend a bit more and get a better one and have less aggro with maintenance problems after a few years. a limescale remover fitted on the cold feed and a magnaclene fitted on the return pipe would be good for the boiler too especially a combi.
 
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With a 7 year warranty you shouldn't be able to go wrong.
But beware. It will have to be properly installed and serviced.
Any flaw and Ideal will use it to get out of the warranty.

Been out to fix a logic twice over
the last year with the same leak. That is my only experience of the logics though.
 
In most installations a 24Kw Combi will not produce great hot water in winter unless you have an appalling water main and poor flow rate!

The only 24Kw combi I have fitted was in a business unit that heated 4 offices and supplied hot water to a single sink in the Loo! :LOL:
 
i currently have a worcester bosch 11-35 he condenser, when it conks out i am having a 36/30 intergas.

only 4 moving parts to pack in and less chance of a dirty system causing problems in the future.

any manufacturer will use the excuse of a dirty system and not being installed to MI's to get out of any lengthy warranty. read the small print. no need for a maganclean or tf1 or any other filter with an intergas , unless the pump needs some protection from gritty bits.

combi's are mainly sized off hot water output, number of bathrooms occupants and number of baths taken daily and water flow/pressure.

3bed semi, 1 bathroom, nothing smaller than a 28kw tbh. bigger the boiler bigger the gas pipe needed.
 
I have just been looking at the intergas 36 30 and it doesn't have a secondary heat exchanger for hot water does it, mind you as far as magnaclenes are concerned the modern condensing boiler have very fine pathways for water to flow through but many of them, so they can get blocked very easily by an unclean system. fill the system with distilled water and it will never get sludge.
 
Have to object with that comment peter.

If the system is air tight you shouldn't get corrosion so no sludge.

Saying that outside influenses can cause corrosion, an electric current for example.
 
yes if the system is air tight no problem, and as long as you remember to never bleed a radiator, or add more water, change a rad, take a rad off and put it back on, just leave it alone everything will be good. the biggest advantage of a magnaclene in my opinion is being able to easily dose a sealed system with a chemical. even if it is only x 100
 
Peter, look more closely at the Intergas.

Fine waterways Are one thing it doesn't have ;) .

OP...avoid Ideal boilers like the VD ridden plague that they are.

Shlt boilers, shlt company. End of.

In order of preference:

Atmos/Intergas
Atag A series
Vaillant ecoTEC Plus
Viessmann


Simples.

All with a 5 year warranty they won't run away from because the installer didn't bow towards Hull when he powered it on for the first time.


Warnkers.
 
yes if the system is air tight no problem, and as long as you remember to never bleed a radiator, or add more water, change a rad, take a rad off and put it back on, just leave it alone everything will be good. the biggest advantage of a magnaclene in my opinion is being able to easily dose a sealed system with a chemical. even if it is only x 100

The F nicks the O from the H2O to form FE. Theres the first sludge with or without air ingress (rust) then the electolysis between copper & Ferrous (F) turns the water acidic that turns the rust into Manganite. Then the Main bonding isnt correct so a small current flows thru the airtight pipework speeding up the electrolysis.

TRhe H then apears as air in the tops of the rads & is bled. In comes more O in the form of H2O to further assist this prosess.
Distilled water wont have a look in.

Cheap radiators that rust from the inside have a lot to answer for.
 
The F nicks the O from the H2O to form FE. Theres the first sludge with or without air ingress (rust) then the electolysis between copper & Ferrous (F) turns the water acidic that turns the rust into Manganite.

F is for Fluorine!

Fe is for iron!
 
OP...avoid Ideal boilers like the VD ridden plague that they are.

Shlt boilers, shlt company. End of.

lol,u talk sh1t
 

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