New Element for a Whirlpool ADG7560 Dishwasher

[Scottewing]

Hi,

I can see from other posts in this forum that the element can be hard to find on this appliance. True to form I cannot see anything that looks like the heating elements shown on line.
As this is an integrated appliance I have not managed to remove the dishwasher so I am trying to do this by only removing the front kicker panel.
I suppose my question is quite simple, is it possible to replace the element by only removing the front panel or do I need to somehow get the dishwasher out, lie it down then take the bottom panel off?

If I can replace the element by only removing the front panel then any advice on how to do this / where to find the element would be gratefully appreciated.

Cheers,

Scott.

 

[rocks1]

http://m.buyspares.co.uk/whirlpool/...ath=67231:400588,47872:67235&model_ref=263920
Base has to come off and need to pull it out. Plus you will need 2 jubilee clips.

 

[Leccy758]

Are you sure it is the element that has failed? or are you going to test it.

 

[Scottewing]

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

Leccy - I'm not 100% sure that it has failed. I'm just working on the 3 flashes error code. Could this indicate anything other than an element failure?

Rocks - Your link is exactly the part I thought I needed to replace. I just thought that I would have at least been able to see it after removing the front kicker plate. However there is nothing visible that resembles that part. I guess I'll just have to bite the bulet and somehow get the machine out from under the surface sso I can remove the base plate.

Cheers.

 

[Scottewing]

Hi,

After a right fight with the bloody thing I've managed to get the machine out and remove the base. However I'm still not seeing anything that resembles the link in Rocks1 post. Rocks1 (or anyone), is the element linked to above the right one for this machine? I suspect that the element must be the part I've circled in RED below:

Untitled

• Scottewing
• 5 Jun 2011
• 1

this based on the 2 terminal connectors. Am I talking nonsense or am I correct?

If i am correct then I'm assuming that the part I need to buy is something like this:

http://www.buyspares.co.uk/whirlpoo...h=463858:496324,47872:463870&model_ref=549751

If this is not the correct part then where on earth is the element that Rocks1 recommends? However I have no knowledge of dishwashers so any further advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Scott.

 

[zipper]

This model has 5 - 6 different versions. Some have a conventional flow-through element like the one Rocks linked & some have one like yours that sits on the circulation motor. That is why it is important to post the machine service number when inquiring about spares. You can find it on the door sticker (12 digits & starts with 85--). Before removing & changing the element I would check it with a multimeter first, they don't fail that often. If you have 30ish ohms there is nothing wrong with it.

 

[Scottewing]

Zipper, Thanks for your reply. I dug out my multimeter today to test. Touching the probes to the terminal connectors gives me an audible continuity indication however when I switch the multimeter to check resistance it is measuring 0. I therefore assume that the element is knackered!

Can anyone confirm that to remove my element I just need to snip the jubilee clips and remove the entire unit then replace it with this?

The model number of my machine is 851175715810 which matches the model number in the link above.

Cheers.

 

[zipper]

Yes that is the correct replacement for your machine. It comes complete with everything you see in the picture, including 2 quick snap hose clips. The Whirlpool p/n for the assembly is 481225928927. The element should measure 28 ohms at 20C. If you measure 0 ohms on a 1 x scale then the element is shorted.

 

[Scottewing]

This has turned out to be the bain of my life!!!
After eventually getting the old element removed (the whole thing had shorted and melted everthing together so I had to cut the old element out and replace the spade connectors) I've now got it running again. However, it just keeps running and running. After piecing it all together again and switching it on it's now been running for over 4.5 hours! There are no lights on or anything and the water inside is only luke warm! Can anyone please tell me how to reset this bloody machine? It's driving me mad!!!!

Cheers,

Scott.

 

[zipper]

Is the element seeing 240v at the terminals? To reset press & hold down the start button (until it resets). However...I don't think a reset will solve the problem.

 

[Scottewing]

Hi Zipper,

Thanks for the quick reply. I agree about about the reset, I had already tried holding it down for well over 30 secs before I posted. You might be onto something with your power theory. I just had to use standard insulated spades to reconnect the new element as the original housing was totaly melted, it was a bit of a squeeze to get them on.
Do you know where I can source a new proper housing like the one in the pic?

//media.diynot.com/167000_166661_35005_73837007_thumb.jpg

I'm not sure how to test the voltage at the elements.

Cheers.

Is the element seeing 240v at the terminals? To reset press & hold down the start button (until it resets). However...I don't think a reset will solve the problem.

Untitled

• Scottewing
• 18 Jun 2011
• 1

 

[zipper]

You could trace the heater wiring back to the pcb & check the voltage output there. Supply to the heater comes from a relay at the far RH side of the pcb (the relay may be marked on the board as RE2). It isn't possible to buy the plug you posted a pic of, you can only buy the whole wiring harness...at a whopping £140 http://www.espares.co.uk/parts?k=481232128499 Insulated spades are ok to use. I fear the pcb may be have been damaged by the short circuit. Might be worth an inspection before laying out any more time or money.

 

[Scottewing]

£140, these boys know how to charge!

Anyway I took the front panel off and no matter how many clips I fiddled with I could not get the PCB out to inspect it. I did find the supply to the heater though. I unplugged the supply and there was no sign of damage and no smell of anything burnt. I've not idea how to test the voltage at the PCB end as I would struggle to get the probes in and I'm no electrician - also, as soon as I turn the machine on it kicks into life an starts spraying water inside.

Why are the lights not working? Surely it should at least be telling me which program it's running!

I hate to admit it but I'm close to admitting defeat and getting someone in!

 

[zipper]

I think the short has popped your pcb. An inspection may reveal damage (probably a blown triac). You need to get it out if you want to check it. Remove the console, the module is clipped in place. If you hit difficulties send me a private message with a valid email & I'll try to send you an exploded diagram. If you post contact details here the moderators will remove it pretty quick (rule 4). You might want to look here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Whirlpool-CDA-Ignis-Prima-Control-Board-Module-RRP-167-/330544633381 I don't know if it is still available. Normal retail price for this module is £100 & it needs programming with a Whirlpool PDA first.

 

[Scottewing]

Zipper, you truely know your stuff. Thanks to your encouragement I went back and got the thing out. You were bang on, the PCB is totally blown. See Pic :

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• Scottewing
• 19 Jun 2011
• 1

I'll send you a PM. Much appreciated.

Scott.