New Kitchen - Help with electrics

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I'm installing a new kitchen. The existing wiring consists of a dedicated cooker circuit also powering a gas hob (igniter) and a downstairs ring main powering all sockets downstairs (13 in all) and kitchen appliances (D/W, fridge, freezer, washing macine, extractor). I'm keeping the same number of appliances but some are changing location. The current wiring (20yrs old) comes from an old fuse board style consumer unit. Some of the wiring seems to be incorrect ie there is 1 switched FCU on the main ring and connected to it is the D/W and extractor fan via sockets. Off the D/W socket the water softener is conected! is this legal? The built under fridge is connected to a switched socket under the worktop. Should this have a switched FCU above the worktop?
Questions:
1.The walls are drylined on block and the outer walls have polystsyene insulation backing on the plaster board as well. Can I lay cable in plaster board or do I have to go in to the block?

2.Is there a safe way to extend the current cooker circuit cable to the cooker control unit (3 feet) or do i have to lay a new cooker cable? The new cooker is 5.1Kwh

3.Should i lay an additional ring or radial circuit to power some of the other appliances? or is it safe to break into the existing ring at some point and install FCU's for every appliance?

4. While i am doing this should I upgrade to a circuit breaker consumer unit?

5. Finally, what is the most efficient way of installing under cupboard lighting?

Any help greatly appreciated

Newners
 
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The existing wiring consists of a dedicated cooker circuit also powering a gas hob (igniter) and a downstairs ring main powering all sockets downstairs (13 in all) and kitchen appliances (D/W, fridge, freezer, washing macine, extractor).
I presume that these are two separate circuits

The current wiring (20yrs old) comes from an old fuse board style consumer unit. Some of the wiring seems to be incorrect ie there is 1 switched FCU on the main ring and connected to it is the D/W and extractor fan via sockets. Off the D/W socket the water softener is conected! is this legal?
Although a little messy (and poorly designed) I cannot see anything seriously wrong with this circuit.

The built under fridge is connected to a switched socket under the worktop. Should this have a switched FCU above the worktop?
It doesn’t have to have. Although having a socket behind an appliance like that is impractical and in my view bad design.

1.The walls are drylined on block and the outer walls have polystsyene insulation backing on the plaster board as well. Can I lay cable in plaster board or do I have to go in to the block?
Could you clarify this a little more, where exactly do you want to run the cable?

2.Is there a safe way to extend the current cooker circuit cable to the cooker control unit (3 feet) or do i have to lay a new cooker cable? The new cooker is 5.1Kwh
We'll yes it can be done but i would strongly advise you to renew the entire cable if at all possible.

3. Should i lay an additional ring or radial circuit to power some of the other appliances? or is it safe to break into the existing ring at some point and install FCU's for every appliance?

Due to the high demand which modern kitchens put on rings. I would advise that you kitchen have it's own dedicated ring. Although there is nothing stopping you from installing FCU's for each applicance on the existing ring. In relation to this, the FCU should really control a socket (perhaps trailing under you units) at least in the case of appliances such as D/W and W/M for maintenance purposes.

5. Finally, what is the most efficient way of installing under cupboard lighting?
More info required here, what kind of lighting? Fluorescent? Access to lighting circuit etc. etc.
 
I was just thinking...

If your using a fused connection unit to supply a socket for an under unit appliance. If there was a problem, which fuse would take preference, the fuse in the connection unit or the fuse in the plug?
 
pot luck

whichever fuse happened to have slightly weaker fusewire would blow first
 
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HI BR,

Thanks for the reply most helpful,

[/quote] I presume that these are two separate circuits

Yes they are separate circuits

The built under fridge is connected to a switched socket under the worktop. Should this have a switched FCU above the worktop?
It doesn’t have to have. Although having a socket behind an appliance like that is impractical and in my view bad design.

Should i install a flex outlet to hardwire the fridge and lead it up to an FCU above the worktop then?

1.The walls are drylined on block and the outer walls have polystsyene insulation backing on the plaster board as well. Can I lay cable in plaster board or do I have to go in to the block?
Could you clarify this a little more, where exactly do you want to run the cable?

I want to run the cooker cable up to the control unit above the work top and then onto the cooker connector behind the tower unit. This wall will be tiled over but is covered in insulated plaster board (about 30mm thick in all). Is it ok to lay the cable in it or ist it best to get back to the masonary and then lay the cable in a conduit?



5. Finally, what is the most efficient way of installing under cupboard lighting?
More info required here, what kind of lighting? Fluorescent? Access to lighting circuit etc. etc.[/quote]

I am installing fluorescent lighting under the cupboards and a couple of halogens in display cabinets. Access to the lighting circuit is difficult as much of it is under the tiled bathroom floor above via a loop in point in the center of the kitchen ceiling. I could install a new lighting circuit from the CU and run the cable under the kitchen floor ( suspended wooden floor ) but this will be covered in ply and 'amtico'. Or i could could take a switched FCU spur off some of the sockets above the worktop. It seems that I could end up with loads of switched FCU's abov the worktop!!

Cheers for the help
 
That'd make it pointless for the fused connection unit?

A switch would suffice.
 

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