Hi guys, just got my self a brand new tester to have a play with and get used to testing. Just a few things i wanted to know 1- when its brannew does it need calibrating? And 2- in my house got a 3036 board when i do a loop test it gives me a reading of say 0.25 if i do it agian its 0.37 and so on goin up, whys that? 3- is got ATT on it do i turn that off when testing 3036 boards? Cheers guys
new tester
- Thread starter john24uk
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what tester is it?
you can buy them calibrated or un calibrated which one did you buy? calibration is a good idea if your going to be using it professionally but if its for home use then not really, unless you suspect its reading wrong.
you can buy them calibrated or un calibrated which one did you buy? calibration is a good idea if your going to be using it professionally but if its for home use then not really, unless you suspect its reading wrong.
If it is bought new then it should have a year included. Normally with Kewtech's it is a piece of tracing paper with registration info on.
ATT stands for anti trip technology. You need this on if there is an RCD upstream of your test as it is likely to trip. Using ATT apply's less current (around 15mA) and so tripping shouldn't occur.
When you do retests, are you doing it from the same point? and are you allowing a bit of time between tests?
ATT stands for anti trip technology. You need this on if there is an RCD upstream of your test as it is likely to trip. Using ATT apply's less current (around 15mA) and so tripping shouldn't occur.
When you do retests, are you doing it from the same point? and are you allowing a bit of time between tests?
It is a kewtech but not got no paper with it, it is brand new. It is from same point am testing didnt really give it time why should you? I knew about the ATT but do u turn it off when there is no rcd are just leave it on would it affect tests in anyway
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I think I would have ATT turned off for testing where at all possible. Although it does prevent the RCD from tripping, i've heard people complain that you get higher (or inaccurate) readings testing this way.
Yep, the non-RCD type tests do normally read higher than a normal EFLI test. Any noise on the system can also play havoc with the readings.
If you haven't got a calibration certificate then you can't assume it is calibrated - if you are using it for work then you really need to have the piece of paper that says it is.
If you haven't got a calibration certificate then you can't assume it is calibrated - if you are using it for work then you really need to have the piece of paper that says it is.
No no its not for work, i wanna try and work for myself at some point but i got it so i could learn how to test proper i will got on the course at somepoint but nice to have a good understanding before i start
The ATT should be turned off when possible to maintain accuracy. I use the KT65 myself, the most annoying thing about these testers is the auto enabling of ATT. However it's purpose is understandable.
Try to take a few readings on a circuit with the ATT off. Allow for a little 'cool down' between tests and you should start to see some consistent readings.
Thanks for the replys guys one more thing when i do a rcd test i use the plug adaptor and plug in to the end socket but a guy in collages says he puts the leads in the fuse box and does the test on each breaker this isnt right is it?
Ahhhhhhhh I was going to post that question, I recently sat an exam and got an ear bashing for testing at the RCD itself. The examiner wanted me to test at the furthest point to prove the circuit, after he watched me doing r1 r2 and IR tests. 
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He is right.
The RCD manufacturers all recommend testing the RCD in isolation. This is because you can get spurious readings when circuit cabling and appliances are connected.
Testing the RCD from the furthest point is b@!!ox. I tell you what. I'd like to give the geezer that gave you an ear bashing one himself. Dozy
wazzock!!
If you have a good r1r2 reading (dead test) and a good Zs reading (live test), then there is absolutely no need to check the RCD operates from that point in the circuit assuming it has been tested in isolation & is satisfactory.
The RCD manufacturers all recommend testing the RCD in isolation. This is because you can get spurious readings when circuit cabling and appliances are connected.
Testing the RCD from the furthest point is b@!!ox. I tell you what. I'd like to give the geezer that gave you an ear bashing one himself. Dozy
wazzock!!
If you have a good r1r2 reading (dead test) and a good Zs reading (live test), then there is absolutely no need to check the RCD operates from that point in the circuit assuming it has been tested in isolation & is satisfactory.
It's correct that the theory of testing an RCD at the 'end' of the circuit as 'necessary practice' is wrong.
This common opinion has most likely been 'encouraged' by the fact the Electricity at work regs state that we should wherever possible avoid working 'Live'. This has caused colleges and training centre's to teach this method of testing via a plug and socket method.
I myself go directly on the load side of the protective devices.
This common opinion has most likely been 'encouraged' by the fact the Electricity at work regs state that we should wherever possible avoid working 'Live'. This has caused colleges and training centre's to teach this method of testing via a plug and socket method.
I myself go directly on the load side of the protective devices.
I wonder if when testing an RCD that this fella would insist on testing every circuit at point of final termination that was fed from each RCD??
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