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New uPVC Underground Drain Fittings Seeping

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by Tozzy, 21 Jun 2017.

  1. Tozzy

    Tozzy

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    DSC_2030.JPG So I've decided to relay my failing 1920s clay underground drainage run (8m in length) with 110mm uPVC fittings after watching some videos on how it's done, but I'm just wondering whether I should be carrying out water tests as I go along (a couple of joints are seeping (not leaking as in drip drip) or is this generally what the pros carry out on larger installations?
     
    Last edited: 21 Jun 2017
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  3. 1) Did you chamfer the pipe ends before insertion?

    2) Why two adjustable bends (One I can understand but it would be better with a 135/45)?

    3) Any leak is not great especially when you're laying in new pipework.
     
  4. Tozzy

    Tozzy

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    Hi, yes I've chamferred with a flat file. The adjustable bend on the right side of the IC is because the drainage run deviates round a corner.
    Would using too much lubricant cause a leak? Btw, the actual joints within the flexibend is seeping also which makes me wonder whether it's defective.
     
  5. Blimey - talk about editing your original post!

    The usual causes for a leak will be that the pipe end wasn't chamfered (enough) / the spigot was pushed into the socket with no lubricant / the pipe isn't square / the seal has been displaced
     
  6. I'd try to loose at least the second adjustable - can't see why you don't run straight into the chamber
     
  7. Ian H

    Ian H

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    I would never use one of those adjustable bends. I've seen them come apart not long after being buried.

    I'd remove them and buy a selection of decent fitting from somewhere like Travis Perkins, you can get 45, 30, 15 and 11degree bends and they never leak.
     
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  8. Tozzy

    Tozzy

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    Hi again newboy, many thanks for your replies:

    Yeah I edited because it didn't seem very concise.

    Ok, perhaps the seal has been displaced because looking back I had to remove the fittings a couple of times because I was having trouble with alignment. Perhaps silicone will rectify it? It's actually only temporary (read on).

    Because the installation isn't as straight forward as that. You can see why here (parts rough laid then and adaptor just loosely placed in position):

    DSC_2029.JPG
     
  9. Tozzy

    Tozzy

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    Hi Ian, thanks, never heard of that firm before. Seems I have one near me (well, not close enough sadly would mean getting the bus lol)

    Well, thing is, I've already got the all the parts now and I'e only got 2 weeks to finish this and tbh, I bought the flexibends because this is my first drainage task I've attempted and to be honest, it's been tough to place everything even with the amount of flexibility these parts offer. Using rigid bends would be even more tricky I think.

    Luckily that section you see after the IC will all be coming out anyway when I get round later on in the year to do round the corner. Then I can do away with those flexibends and use a straight section of pipe. I'll crack on anyway and see how I go with the rest of the run. Thanks guys.
    Oh and btw, these flexibends are from wickes lol (say no more!)
     
    Last edited: 21 Jun 2017
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  11. Pin 5

    Pin 5

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    Is it leaking on those adjustable bends. iirc they are directional.
     
  12. Ian H

    Ian H

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    Which is your nearest Travis Perkins?
     
  13. Tozzy

    Tozzy

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    not entirely sure what you mean but the middle seeps also not just the ends so ill redo with silicone

    bulwell, nottingham hence why i'd need a bus but it would mean extra faffing around and still no guarantee of leakfree joints
     
    Last edited: 21 Jun 2017
  14. Pin 5

    Pin 5

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    They are leaking because you've fit them the wrong way round.
     
  15. Tozzy

    Tozzy

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    Well, unless you can explain how they are the wrong way round, then I'll have to disagree; simply because the male spigot end is the end (not the socket end which is female) which goes into the inspection chamber and is running in the direction of the flow of the water. This how the parts are designed. I notice you are from the netherlands, are you familar with these fittings?

    I've decided now I'm not relying on ringseals to fully watertight the joint so every joint I make from now will be with solvent cement inside the ringseal joint. I'm really disappointed with the quality of these products. Makes me wonder if floplast products are any better.
     
  16. PullerGas

    PullerGas

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    Use nothing but Marley.
     
  17. The incoming swivel joint is okay, but the outgoing one is in the wrong direction, (even though there's a degree of reasoning to the way you've done it) as you always push the champhered end into the next seal, in the direction of the flow. You should have pushed the long piece into the outgoing spigot, and then made the angle adjustment at the other end.

    But if the swivel part is leaking, then just take them back and say they are faulty. It might be a faf to go and get the better ones, but if the joints see, over a period of time, you'll get the ground sinking round the joint, and that'll mean redoing the job, with very soggy and stinky ground to dig up.

    If you can get fixed angle joints to make the connections, then you'll end up with a much more secure job.
     
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