Newbie Query - Fitting Tongue and Groove Floorboard

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I destroyed some floorboards during the removal process

I plan to purchase some replacement T&G floorboard

However what I wanted to know is whether i will need to cut the tongues on all the boards in order to make them fit?

If so what would be the best/most efficient way to remove the tongues?

During removal, I used a multi tool to plunge/cut the old boards out. I also have a plunge saw
 
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Even if you can get boards of the same depth and width, the tongues might not line up with the grooves in the existing boards. Reclaimed boards might be an option

Blup
 
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Even if you can get boards of the same depth and width, the tongues might not line up with the grooves in the existing boards. Reclaimed boards might be an option

Blup
By your comment, i assume that you dont need to cut the tongue on the new board if they line up with the grooves of the existing floorboards?

If they don't line up, then should i cut the tongue on the new board? If so, what tool would make light work of this?
 
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To remove tongues on new boards use a sharp hand plane, circular saw, multitool and saw blade, power planer, chisel and hammer, jigsaw, etc. Take your pick, loads of ways although a nice sharp plane us the one likely to give the best results

And yes, if the new tongue/old groove or old tongue/new groove don't line up then the tongues need to be removed
 
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Have you got a router? You can clean the tongues off with that or even trim them so the new boards will engage with the old. (Obvs you'll leave the tongues & grooves where new board is linking to new board)

And good luck with getting boards even close if your place is Victorian- 25mm finished T & G will be v pricey! Depending on what area you have to replace, consider 6mm ply or MDF strips underneath 18mm boards
 
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Have you got a router? You can clean the tongues off with that or even trim them so the new boards will engage with the old. (Obvs you'll leave the tongues & grooves where new board is linking to new board)

And good luck with getting boards even close if your place is Victorian- 25mm finished T & G will be v pricey! Depending on what area you have to replace, consider 6mm ply or MDF strips underneath 18mm boards
Thanks for the luck :D

The Building was built in 1991, so hopefully I'll have a chance
 
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Depending on what area you have to replace, consider 6mm ply or MDF strips underneath 18mm boards
I NEVER, EVER use MDF in a flooring situation. Plywood, hardwood and softwood can all be used as packers - MDF beneath a floor is likely to act like cardboard and simply wick up.any and all moisture, which is far from ideal. Also, like OSB and chipboard when used for packers it is hardly the strongest of materials.
 
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Well chuffed!

The replacement 18mm tongue and groove floorboard slotted in perfectly with the existing floorboard :D:D

I NEVER, EVER use MDF in a flooring situation. Plywood, hardwood and softwood can all be used as packers - MDF beneath a floor is likely to act like cardboard and simply wick up.any and all moisture, which is far from ideal. Also, like OSB and chipboard when used for packers it is hardly the strongest of materials.
I screwed some scrap wood (from a pallet) underneath the floorboards for extra support

On first look, it seems like a decent job

And most importantly, no squeaks ;)
 

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I NEVER, EVER use MDF in a flooring situation. Plywood, hardwood and softwood can all be used as packers - MDF beneath a floor is likely to act like cardboard and simply wick up.any and all moisture, which is far from ideal. Also, like OSB and chipboard when used for packers it is hardly the strongest of materials.
Fair point on raw shop-bought MDF, my stock is all ex pantomime floors (with a lot of paint and glaze on them)- they've already survived being mopped once a day for 8 weeks :)
 
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Stop that right now.

Can't even say 'to me to you' now- has to be 'to me to me'. A world without a Chuckle Brother is a sad world
 
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