Newbie removed wall, could do with some advice

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10 Aug 2010
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Renfrewshire
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United Kingdom
Hi All,

I'm a newbie to the forum, and to DIY of this magnitude, but i've removed a load bearing wall between my kitchen and dining. The clear span is 3.5m with a doorway at the very right hand side (when looking from kitchen). When the wall is removed, the right hand side of the door will become an external corner because the dining is slightly longer than the kitchen. The beam is 203x102x23.

I really hope that made sense :oops: Probably unecessary, but i see a lot of questions where people have not given enough info.

So far all has gone really well and by the (legal) book in so far as i have employed a SE and kept BC informed all the way, and have them coming out on Friday to hopefully rubber stamp my work.

OK, so far i've inserted the needles and held them up with acrows down to solum level, footed on 2 layers of railway sleeper. I've cut the wall along the top and cut holes for the padstones and mortared them in place, i'm waiting 48hrs now before i can put the beam up onto the padstones. We have had to live in the mess for the time being so i don't think propping up the beam then fitting the padstones under it would have worked for me, plus, access is quite good to just slot the beam in because it's going into an external corner at one side.

My problem is that when i fit up the beam, i'm going to have a gap between the beam and the brickwork above of about 20mm ish. This is because the needles are 178x102x19 (townhouse) and sitting 20mm below the mortar line of the bricks i removed.

So, my question is, can i use slate and mortar to pack up as much as 20mm or should i use something else???

Many thanks guys,

Gordon
 
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We always specify 3:1 semi dry pack for gaps such as you are describing.
Pack in solidly and allow to go rock hard before removing the acrows and you shouldn't have any problems.
 
Thanx for the reply Ronnie... so no need for slate at all then, or do you mean as well as slate???

Thank you,

G
 
Shouldn't need slate. Probably better to use slate if gap was smaller but for 20mm I think dry-pack is the way to go.

Obviously once you remove the needles pack those gaps too :!:
 
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