Raising padstones to RSJ advice

[pete47]

Hi guys,

Just wondering what the professional technique is for the following,

An rsj is to be fitted in place of a supporting wall. The ceiling is acro'd up and the wall removed. The brickwork to support the beam is removed including space for the padstones and mortar joint below the padstone.

The rsj is acro'd into position tight to the wall plate/joists above.

Now what's the "correct" technique to raise the padstone upto the rsj and fill the mortar joint below?

I assume it requires a shim of some sort, if so should this be removed and filled when set and what should it be comprised of?

 

[pred]

If you knock some wooden wedges in from either side below the padstone then literally through muck in the joint between the underside of the padstone and the brickwork with a small pointing trowel and then compress it in with a bit of pipe or bucket handle, the muck should be 4/1 sand/cement remove the wedges once the muck has gone off.

What is sitting on top of the lintel? is it brickwork? If so I would butter the lintel first with muck then srew the acro props up hitting the lintel with a lump hammer as you go squeezes the muck out and fills any small cavities and irregularities.

 

[pete47]

If you knock some wooden wedges in from either side below the padstone then literally through muck in the joint between the underside of the padstone and the brickwork with a small pointing trowel and then compress it in with a bit of pipe or bucket handle, the muck should be 4/1 sand/cement remove the wedges once the muck has gone off.

What is sitting on top of the lintel? is it brickwork? If so I would butter the lintel first with muck then srew the acro props up hitting the lintel with a lump hammer as you go squeezes the muck out and fills any small cavities and irregularities.

Hi pred, thanks for the advice. One side this will be fine as I can access both sides, the other end is going into the cavity wall at 90 degrees so I can't get wedges to the other side. Maybe I'll be able it'll work from the one side?

The beam will support the ceiling joists for the 1st floor and there was no wall plate on the supporting wall so they will sit directly on top.

 

[pred]

I'm not to sure with this but I have a feeling it may be beneficial to put hard rubber between the joist and RSJ. Dampen noise if nothing else.

Just jack the ends up close to where the padstones are then and chuck the muck in, compress it and chuck some more in till it's solid and wait for it to dry.

 

[pete47]

I'm not to sure with this but I have a feeling it may be beneficial to put hard rubber between the joist and RSJ. Dampen noise if nothing else.

Just jack the ends up close to where the padstones are then and chuck the muck in, compress it and chuck some more in till it's solid and wait for it to dry.

Yeah, there was some dpc on the underside of the joists, I tool this as a means to prevent moisture from the wall rotting the joists but it may have had a deadening effect. I may put some dpc back on the joists.

Thanks again

 

[^woody^]

Rubber? The suggestion of dampening noise is nonsense, as it's not an issue.

Wedge padstone up with slate, and pack with a semi dry 3:1, or a slightly wetter 2:1 which will expand slightly and form a solid joint

 

[pred]

As a bricky my advice is different to Woody, I would always use 4:1, the more cement you add, the more brittle it becomes.

 

[^woody^]

I would always use 4:1, the more cement you add, the more brittle it becomes.

Lol are you serious? Brittle? The joint is in compression

If you are a bricklayer, then you should know that mortar mix would not be your choice to make when carrying out this type of work - it will be specified for you.

 

[RonnyRaygun]

I would always use 4:1, the more cement you add, the more brittle it becomes.

Lol are you serious? Brittle? The joint is in compression

If you are a bricklayer, then you should know that mortar mix would not be your choice to make when carrying out this type of work - it will be specified for you.

Since when did that stop builders ignoring the spec?

 

[gangman]

I would bed on the padstone and any bricks needed below it, leaving a gap of about 15mm between the padstone and the steel. I would leave this overnight to allow for any shrinkage and then pack under the steel with mortar.
Whenever I use mortar for packing I leave it to start drying before using it. Much better than trying to use wet muck.