Nicked the power cable on my circular saw

[Lower]

Somehow I managed to catch the cable with my circular saw when I finished a cut before the guard snapped back. I’ve exposed the copper on two cores, so it’s more than just an insulating tape repair. Is there a proper way of repairing the cable without replacing the whole thing?

 

[Burnerman]

One of these maybe? They are others which may be a bit more clumsy.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/teetube-ip68-3-pole-in-line-cable-joint/92911
John

 

[conny]

Having something bulky like that in a circular saw cable would do my head in.
Much better to replace the whole length of cable and probably cheaper. If it's pvc sheathed I'd take the opportunity and replace with rubber as it's much more flexible in cold conditions.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I'd just replace the cable with some appropriate size rubber insulated flex from an electrical wholesale (even if it is 3-core)

 

[blup]

I used the Hylec when i cut through the cable on my hedge trimmer. It does catch occasionally but cheaper than the recommended Makita replacement.

If you go for a new cable you have the opportunity to use a longer cable, in rubber.

Blup

 

[conny]

I keep thinking I will change the cables on a few of my tools but because I don't use them on a regular basis I never get round to it.

 

[Notch7]

Festool have the right idea - a bayonet socket on tool.

Replacing power tool cables is annoying - there's never any room where they go into the tool and the plastic never goes back as well.

 

[cdbe]

Whenever I scrap an old washing machine, Hoover etc I always keep the old cable, especially if it has a nice moulded plug in it.

 

[Alec_t]

If you go for a new new cable you have the opportunity to use a longer cable, in rubber.

I remember the days when portable power tools came with a decent length of cable, then the bean-counters persuaded manufacturers to use ever shorter lengths until the EU stepped in and dictated a minimum 2 metre length. That minimum has now become the norm and is impractically short for many tools.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I must admit that my corded jigsaw has a 4 metre flex whilst my site vacuum now sports a 6 metre cable. Much handier

 

[SpecialK]

Solder and heat shrink? Best off replacing the whole cable...

 

[opps]

Festool have the right idea - a bayonet socket on tool.

Replacing power tool cables is annoying - there's never any room where they go into the tool and the plastic never goes back as well.

The Plug it leads do (in my experience) have a high failure rate though. I had a number that suffered from arcing and many where the live or neutral break just after the strain relief- I have ended up opening a few up, cutting off a few cm and then using crimp connectors under the strain relief and then covering with heat shrink tubing (approx 15 to 20 minutes of work). When the fixed lead on my Fein oscillating saw did something similar it took less than 5 minutes to shorten the flex and refit.

That said, I do like the concept of the Plug-It leads.

 

[Lower]

Thanks to all that replied.

I was hoping that there might be a product out there for exactly this purpose, but it really needs to be non bulky and a similar diameter to the existing flex to enable it to not get caught when making longer cuts.

Its a decent makita saw with a rubber cable. I'll just have to bite the bullet and replace it.

 

[Burnerman]

Hopefully the handle will come in half when some screws are undone.....replacement should be reasonably easy in this case.
In some instances, the whole machine splits in half which is a pain.
It’s worth the effort for a Makita.
John

 

[rsgaz]

Be on the look out for a hidden screw underneath a sticker when you're wondering why the damn case won't separate!!