Nightmare - bitumen, uneven screed etc over concrete!

Joined
19 Apr 2010
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
West Glamorgan
Country
United Kingdom
After scouring this forum avidly for information, I'm posting up for the first time in the hope of some useful info. To be honest, I'm really hoping for a response from Mattysupra as he seems to be The Man when it comes to this sort of problem!

OK, room is 30m2 and I want to lay oak wood-block parquet (which I've already bought). House is 1950s.

I lifted the carpets to find it had been very badly 'levelled' with chipboard. This was screwed to the concrete floor underneath, also stuck down with loads of stinky bitumen. The floor screed was very poor - like the bl**dy Himalayas!

The room was originally 2 rooms (before we bought the house). In the front half, the screed sounded very hollow and had a number of cracks in it. I used a wrecking bar to lift it (complete with bitumen) off the concrete slab underneath. Easy, as it had been laid over dry 5mm gravel so was effectively unbonded (some sort of primitive damp proofing attempt?) The slab underneath is very uneven, but apparently sound (no cracks, sounds good and thick). No evidence of a DPM though. The old screed that I removed was about 30 - 50mm thick (varied).

In the back half of the room, tapping the floor in different places suggests that the screed (again very uneven) is bonded to the concrete underneath much better (except where an old fireplace was - I have not investigated this yet - looks as if it could be a bit damp there too). The screed in the back half has 3 wooden battens in it running the length of the room (to make screeding 'bays'?).

I hired a flail machine and took off much of the bitumen in the back half (fun job), although some stubborn bits and some staining do remain.

One thing that concerns me is that, while the top of the concrete slab (as now visible in the front half) sits at DPC level (which can be seen in the inner leaf of the wall), the screed in the back half of the room is currently above it. As it's a bonded screed with (almost certainly) no DPM, it's effectively bridging the DPC, although there's not currently any evidence of damp in the walls.

Anyway, I'm currently thinking that the front half of the room should get 2 coats of aqueous bitumen liquid DPM (eg syntheprufe) onto the slab, second coat sand blinded, followed by a 50mm semi-dry SBR modified sand and cement screed (maybe with polyprop fibres in the mix?) Does this sound OK?

Then what to do with the back??? Try and sort out what I've got and bring it to the level of the new screed with SLC over a liquid epoxy DPM? Or should I try and get the old screed off the slab in the back half of the room too, perhaps with a kango? Not a job I look forward to...

This floor is really doing my head in!

Thanks in advance for any input, sorry about the long essay!

Dom
 
Sponsored Links
hi, might be a bit late in my reply.

There sounds like a few things are wrong. Have you considered digging up the concrete (base) and starting again using a proper DPM that you can tye into the wall DPC and insulation then get the concrete the correct height etc.


By the time yopu have messed around with the old subfloor with screeds, epoxy dpm, smoothing compounds etc you may be better starting again. Also things like the timbers in the floor need to be removed etc as these will rot and cause more trouble and the fact that your concrete is bridging the DPC may cause you moister problems in the walls if epoxy is used.
 
Thanks for the info Matty - not too late (I work slowly). Yes I did think about this option, but I'm not too keen due to upheaval, mess, difficult access for skips etc. (I have removed all the wood batten from the floor though.) My current plan is as follows:

Two coats of tanking slurry on the exposed concrete slab (front half of room), and fix self-adhesive flashband (75mm wide) to the walls at floor level, then get a new screed 50mm laid over it (maybe with SBR in it). The flashband is impermeable and should isolate the new screed from the wall.

Once the new screed is down, use SLC (either F Ball 900 DPM-prep (acrylic) or Arditex NA (latex) - both say they are OK for application underneath the dpm) to level up the back half of the room, priming any stubborn traces of bitumen with stopgap p131 primer. Then a two-coat epoxy DPM over the whole lot (probably Merlin barrier coat), and then Rewmar MS polymer to stick the parquet down - this is a flexible adhesive designed to go directly over epoxy DPMs.

I'm hoping this will be OK, but any comments more than welcome.

Cheers
Dom
 
you have been doing some research! Its like speaking to myself LOL!

Stick with F-Ball. All sounds fine.
 
Sponsored Links
Nice one Matty. I really appreciate input from someone like yourself who clearly knows what he's talking about - it amazes me how much rubbish is talked by people who are just clueless!

Cheers
Dom
 
Hi again - hopefully Mattysupra will spot this, but all informed opinions welcome. Further to my original post, I'm progressing as planned. I'm at the stage where I need some levelling compound which will be laid BEFORE the epoxy DPM goes down. So I need a moisture tolerant SLC.

My first choice was F Ball Stopgap 900 dpm-prep as this 'does what is says on the tin'. But I'm having the devils' own job getting hold of it! So anyone got any opinions as to good alternatives? I'd prefer acrylic to latex I think as it seems always to be stronger (compressive and tensile strength). The possibles that I'm considering are Arditex NA (but it's latex and not very high strength compared to many) and I'm also wondering about Stopgap Green Bag with the 114 acrylic liquid in it. Any other suggestions? Any comments?

Cheers
Dom
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top