No power at cooker socket

Z

zebra

I have no power at my cooker socket, but the fuse which is a rewirable type is not blown. I tested the voltage from the fuseboard where the cooker cable is wired in and it had a voltage of 230v on it, but at the other end of the cable it is dead (going into the cooker socket). Can someone please help.... do I have to do a insulation resistance test? How do I do this?
 
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S

sparkyspike

Hello. Where exactly did you take the measurement of 230v from? What did you use to measure it? Do you know how to do a continuity test on the cable?
 
Z

zebra

I took the measurement from the fuse carrier that the actual 30amp fuse was fitted into. I just put the multimeter to the continuity icon( which makes a beeping sound) and then I test live and earth and then neutral and earth at the cooker end and that would tell me which conducter the fault is on, I think.
 
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sparkyspike

Ok, forget tests on the cable for now. It sounds like you've tested the voltage with the fuse out? Which means you're measuring the supply voltage. Set your meter to continuity (so it beeps) and double check the fuse wire for continuity. If you're certain you've measured the voltage on the downstream side of the fuse, then:

Disconnect the cable at the fuse box. Join live and earth together and measure L-E at the cooker switch. Do the same with live and neutral. You should get a low ohm measurement (something like 0.1 Ohms) This would mean that you should be getting voltage when it's wired up again.

When you test for voltage, test between live and neutral as well as live to earth.

Insulation resistance testing is different to continuity testing. You measure between conductors without linking them together, but you need an insulation resistance tester (which puts 500v into the conductors to encourage them to leak, so that the leak can be measured).
 

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