Nomoreply V hardibacker

[Master of None]

I am taking the advice given to me in a previous thread //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=735057#735057 My floor is well supported 22mm MR caberboard. However I am having trouble finding a supplier in Edinburgh for Nomorenails products. I know I could have it delivered direct but I work around 20 miles from home and cannot be there to accept delivery. Topstiles offered me Hardibacker S but it seems a lot more difficult to install. ie.
Hardibacker S : Bed sheet into Tile adhesive, screw down, bed tape into joints with tile adhesive, finally finish joint with tile adhesive and feather. Sounds like skill is required....
Nomoreply : Apply 2 small beads of super strong polyurethane adhesive, screw down. apply adhesive to joint, ready for next sheet. Even I could do that.
So my questions are.
Is there an easier way to lay Hardibacker?
Do I ask my tiler to use a particular tile adhesive and grout.

Thanks in advance.
Please don't laugh at the length of time between my original thread and this one. I am a very slow worker.

 

[Softus]

Topstiles offered me Hardibacker S but it seems a lot more difficult to install. ie.
Hardibacker S : Bed sheet into Tile adhesive, screw down, bed tape into joints with tile adhesive, finally finish joint with tile adhesive and feather. Sounds like skill is required....

That's sound over the top to me.

So my questions are.
Is there an easier way to lay Hardibacker?

See also the installation instructions on the James Hardie web site.

Do I ask my tiler to use a particular tile adhesive and grout.

What are you laying the board onto?

 

[Master of None]

Thanks Softus for your prompt reply. I have looked at the web site and the instructions are the same as the leaflet i picked up for 6mm board at Topstiles described above. My Floor is 22mm MR chipboard with joists at 600 crs. However i have installed 75x50 noggins at 600 crs also to create effectively 600mm squares to make it more rigid. It feels stiff enough when I jump on it . However The website also says what the leaflet does not ie.
For all floors:
• Use minimum 5/8 exterior grade plywood or 23/32 OSB with Exposure 1 classification or better, complying with local building codes and ANSI A108.11.
• Joist spacing not to exceed 24"
on center.
• The floor must be engineered not to exceed the L/360 deflection criteria
(L/720 for natural stone), including live and dead design loads, for the
specific joist spacing used.
Does this mean I also need ply and my floor is not adequately supported any way?
This is turning out to be the most expensive floor in history. Maybe i should just rip out floor and joists and installing a direct to earth concrete slab..
I have not selected tiles yet, but being a bloke I can select them based on weight only if that will help.

Any help appreciated.

 

[JamesBeasley]

With Hardibacker no skill is really required. Yes the boards have to be screwed down and yes you have to lay the tape into the joints with tile adhesive unfortunately. Screwing the boards down is easy enough (don't forget to miss any underfloor pipes). For the tape and joint - lightly fill the joints with adhesive and press the tape in. Then fill over the top of the tape with more adhesive with a wide filler knife. This will ensure that even with expansion and contraction your floor tiles will not crack and undo your hard work.

Your joist centres are fine. Put plenty of fixings in the board and you are away!! When it said 'feather' the adhesive - you do not need to do any more than make it level with the board itself. Otherwise it will prove difficult to level the tiles.

Like any cement based board they are very difficult to cut. As a rough idea of how bad they are.... After five cuts through the full length of the boards you will need a new hand saw

Hope this helps.

 

[Master of None]

Thankyou, but I got the floor done last year. Used nomoreply. However the hardibacker instructions say "Bed sheet into Tile adhesive" this was the bit I thought sounded like a lot of extra work and cost.