not a smooth finish!

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Hi - have repainted some white gloss woodwork. Rubbed down the old coat and brush painted an undercoat. Rubbed that down and painted a dulux non drip gloss topcoat. Needed another coat so rubbed that coat down and put a final coat of non drip gloss on with a brush. Obviously hoovered and wiped down the woodwork after sanding

Looks fine but feels as rough as sandpaper in parts. Any ideas?
 
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Been using White Spirit - what's the best brush cleaner?
 
If woodwork has an intricate profile then it is easy to miss a bit of dust here and there, even with vacuuming and wiping. This could have been picked up by your brush and spread around, but it shouldn't feel that rough.

If you are painting skirting, then it is very easy for the brush to pick up grit from the surrounding floor or for you to inadvertently kick dust onto the wet paint as you move around.

Other than this, I can only agree with Jasbrojpb's suggestions.

White spirit is fine providing brushes are cleaned immediately after use and done thoroughly.
 
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Very true about painting skirting - but today I tried an idea I just thought of :idea: 2 brushes- one 1" and one 2" . the 1" I used for the top of the (mouded) skirting and the 2" for the bottom / against the floor - BUT I put a mark with felt pen along one side of the 2" brush and kept that side up - so the same side would always run along the floor . Therefore any bits were confined to 1 side of 1 brush :idea: Seemed to work quite well :p
 
Sanding new gloss can cause problems if it is still soft, and you rub too hard.

To prevent getting debris in the paint when painting skirting boards use a length of wide plastic electrical capping on the floor against the skirting. It will save the brush touching the floor. It is of a top hat profile, so will fit over the carpet grip rod, if you have one - will also prevent you touching the spikes.
 
i suspect that your problems might be the result of sanding the gloss before it had cured sufficiently.

It might be the cased that in the process of sanding it you created "micro" rips in the finish, rips which then stand up as the next coat (and dusting brush) is "dragged" over the surface.

If this is the problem then you will just need to wait a few days and give it a very light sand with a fine silicone carbide paper (eg 320/400 grit). The grain on silicone carbide is much smaller than alunium oxide and better suited to sanding between coats, the addition of sterates in the silicone carbide paper also help to reduce clogging and friction overheat.

I tend to stick to eggshell but I find that sanding the next day results in the fine dust being impossible to remove completely (as it sticks to the surface). Washing with water or spirits makes little difference- I just have to be very aggressive with the dust attachment on the dust extractor.

Post 2010 Compliance- paints do take much longer to cure, even when adding oxidising agents
 

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