I've been removing the built in wardrobe in a room and the rail passed through two timbers either side for support. Thing is, i can't seem to really find a matching bit to redrill them when i put it back up. I'd like to use the same tube since it's strong but as near as i can make out the o/s diameter is just over 27mm and none of the flat/forstner or auger bits i've looked at seem to have a size for that. Is it a case of it being an old imperial size that's not now made or what?Otherwise, if i drill the hole large, what can i pack the ends of the tube with without spoiling the look.. as i would be fitting it to varnished timbers..?
Odd hole sizes.. auger/flat?
- Thread starter kaseryn
- Start date
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one of these and a bit of a wiggle
http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=66602
or smaller hole and a bit off 22mm copper in the shortend rail
or cut a"v" in the blocks with a 25mm round base for them to sit on
http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=66602
or smaller hole and a bit off 22mm copper in the shortend rail
or cut a"v" in the blocks with a 25mm round base for them to sit on
if you work it round [basicly moving the drill of centre and in a circular motion with the bit still running in the hole ] it will increase the hole any way and a bit of sandpaper will finish it off
"Would prob be a pretty small square, like a skirting black."
not terms iam used to
to support the ends of the rails
i would use a 4 " length of 2x1" plained with the hole 3mm above centre
ends cut to an octagone[ 3 equal segments] with a moulding round the face edge to finnish
"Would prob be a pretty small square, like a skirting black."
not terms iam used to
to support the ends of the rails
i would use a 4 " length of 2x1" plained with the hole 3mm above centre
ends cut to an octagone[ 3 equal segments] with a moulding round the face edge to finnish
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Umm.. block i mean I see what you mean about working the drill. As for making the ends.. i'm with you until the 'ends cut to an octagon' bit. Not quite sure what you mean there.. but i like the idea of cutting a block and adding moulding!
I see what you mean about working the drill. As for making the ends.. i'm with you until the 'ends cut to an octagon' bit. Not quite sure what you mean there.. but i like the idea of cutting a block and adding moulding!just get your local tool shop (proper shop that is - not a shed )to order a 28mm flat bit for you , bosch and bahco (to name but 2)make them
failing that , if you want an exact hole get a expansive bit
and fer gawds sake dont try to "wiggle" a hinge sinking bit
failing that , if you want an exact hole get a expansive bit
and fer gawds sake dont try to "wiggle" a hinge sinking bit
One point to bear in mind is that flat bits can always be reground to drill off size holes (after all, thy're cheap enough) or even oddball stepped holes, etc. Another is that they won't stay sharp for long......
Scrit
Scrit
kaseryn said:
ok 3mm above centre
wood = 44mm minus cutter that is 27= 17mm half depth would be 8.5mm above and below the pole now thats fine and should be strong enough but if you accidently cut below with 5mm left i would fear for the weight finding the weak spot on the bottom so if you start on 11mm bottom you have room for mistakes
seaangler i dont see a problem with working the the bit i could have said make shure its clamped firmly on a batton of wood and and hold the weight so its only enlarging the hole by 1mm rather than cutting throught the batton ok its mainly friction rather than reaming but no big deal
the point about the hexigon imagine a hexigon with 8 sides all equal lengths you then stretch the top and bottom faces to =4"
you cut a face at 45% between the top and side the same the bottom the end face will be around 17mm you then have 3 facets each end of equal lengths
just thought i would mention in relation to your other thread
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=621894#621894
if your trying to suspend 4ft spans my 2x1" above would have to be uprated to 4x1" by whatever length to spread the weight to something solid like the wall
if your not egnore this post
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=621894#621894
if your trying to suspend 4ft spans my 2x1" above would have to be uprated to 4x1" by whatever length to spread the weight to something solid like the wall
if your not egnore this post
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