Office shed power and wiring

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I'm looking to cable up an external office. All the current kitchen sockets are in use, but found this under a kitchen counter.

I think I can use this old socket, put an RCD switch on either end (in kitchen or in office) and then just lay the cable and connect it up.


If I put a lighting ring and sockets in the office I'll add a consumer unit (TBC) in the office.

I need to check my cable rating, but I think that'll work?

I'm planning on doing the work and getting building control or a 3rd party to sign it off.
 
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What loads will be used in this office?

If you connect to that 'socket' in the kitchen, the maximum load will be 13A, which makes a consumer unit and a ring circuit in the office totally pointless.
You do not need an RCD at both ends, and if the circuit in the kitchen is already RCD protected, there is no point in adding an RCD at all.

Another issue is whether that thing in the kitchen is part of a ring or radial, and what the load on that circuit is now - probably fairly high if it's a kitchen.
 
It's radial.

Office loads: 2 double sockets, likely a TV chrome cast or OTT box and occasionally a power tool. One or two lights.

The RCD and a switched spur actually is just so I can isolate the office if I trip the breaker ever.

CU the same for the lights and sockets.
 
Only trouble is... Ge_wiz I'm dreaming my life away.

Next it will be cordless sockets!

Step one work out what you need.

From what you say well over 13A so only place you can get that power is at the consumer unit. In other words not a DIY job. Putting a SWA cable to shed to work the light is one thing. Wiring up an office is something else.
 
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I was hoping to avoid running something to the CU, I can it's certainly not complicated from where my CU is, just takes longer.

I'm not sure I agree that I can't run it as a switched spur. I'm often running the same stuff (TV, box + powertool) when I do DIY in the garden off an existing socket.

Powertool, I mean like a drill or a jigsaw. So top with TV etc it'll be 1500W fine for 13a I think. If I want to start running an air compressor it might be in trouble.
 
I'll add a consumer unit (TBC) in the office.
When you apply for Building Regulation approval, what will you say will be the way you'll ensure compliance with Part P?

Not sure I get you. If I get a 3rd party to do it they'll give me a compliance certificate. If the planning control people sign it off they'll give me the same.

I have some of the basic test kit, enough to tell me the circuits are good. I'll have to do a bit of maths to make sure I get the right cabling and conduits, I'll leave it all open and keep track of my cable lengths and maths to show I'm fairly competent - simples.
 
I have used the LABC route once. First question was who will inspect and test. Answer was us next question was what qualifications do you hold.

Yes you can DIY but you need to have the test equipment and the paperwork to show you know how to use it.

It would seem the LABC can employ third party testers. They are paid to test and it's pass or fail. If fail do it again and do it properly and pay again for another test. Even when it passes all you get is the completion certificate you don't get the installation certificate so can still be a problem when selling the house.

If you are competent well that name is to be dropped so skilled now covers both competent and skilled then yes you will clearly know how to do the job and will be able to inspect and test and all the LABC does is select random items and re-test and see if results match.

As far as I am aware although the law permits third party testers no scheme operator has taken up the option of authorising third party testing so it simply does not exist.
 
As far as I am aware although the law permits third party testers no scheme operator has taken up the option of authorising third party testing so it simply does not exist.
It seems that you haven't been paying proper attention to the forum for the past few days :)

What you say is what we all thought - but 'third party certifiers' are apparently now with us (thanks to BAS have discovered and pointed it out to us all)!

Kind Regards, John
 
It's radial.

Office loads: 2 double sockets, likely a TV chrome cast or OTT box and occasionally a power tool. One or two lights.

The RCD and a switched spur actually is just so I can isolate the office if I trip the breaker ever.

CU the same for the lights and sockets.

How will you keep warm in the winter?
 
Wall, floor, ceiling celotex. Electric heating would probably blow my amperage.

If it becomes an issue I might get a small stove, or upgrade the power which I'd like to avoid until I can afford a hot tub installation.
 

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