Oil-fired boiler problem

Just regarding the solenoid coil on top of the pump, its only really testable when it has failed - but they do fail fairly often and I always have them in stock. Around £25 for a Danfoss one.
John :)
 
Sponsored Links
its only really testable when it has failed
Sounds a bit like Schrodinger's cat :) I think I know what you mean though.

I remember when we had serial problems with a [gas] condensing boiler the engineers had the advantage of carrying various spares, as you describe, and could just swap components out to see if the problems went away - not a luxury enjoyed by the householder. That problem dragged on and on for months. Fortunately we had a contract at the time - I'm sure it would have cost a small fortune if we'd had to pay for each visit, and that's the kind of scenario I'm dreading here.

The guy who was recommended called back this morning but it seems that he's a plumber rather than a heating engineer - he does installations but leaves the servicing (and commissioning, I think) to someone else. Meanwhile I've cleaned the filter on the main fuel cock at the tank (I guess that's what I've seen described as the 'inline filter'?). It didn't seem blocked as such, but it was a bit grubby so I've cleaned it up and re-fitted. Now waiting to see how long it runs this time...
 
At the point of lockout, pull out the burner and look at the nozzle and into the combustion chamber for signs of oil. If oil is there, change the EBI ignition unit. Stix.
 
Thanks for the tip. It's now been running for 3.5hrs without locking out though so, with any luck...
 
Sponsored Links
At the point of lockout, pull out the burner and look at the nozzle and into the combustion chamber for signs of oil. If oil is there, change the EBI ignition unit. Stix.

How many EBI's do you change Stix?
I doubt if I change one a year, and then it is fairly obvious that it has failed when you see the split case.
 
Might not need to change 1 for ages, then 2 or 3 three at once (like waiting for a bus). Just when they are goosed. Most show no visible sign of fault but can still give intermittent lockout. Stix.
 
Might not need to change 1 for ages, then 2 or 3 three at once (like waiting for a bus). Just when they are goosed. Most show no visible sign of fault but can still give intermittent lockout. Stix.
It is possible to check these visually, disconnecting the pump coil, and start and stop the burner a few times without letting it go to lockout. If it is weak, then after the 3rd or 4th time, you will see the spark diminish.
Usual cause is if the burner has been recycling for any length of time, and the rated operation has been exceeded.
 
It's now been running for 3.5hrs without locking out though so, with any luck...
No such luck :( It ran for 7+ hours after I had cleaned the inline filter, but then it locked out again. It's now back to running for an hour or less after resets.

I've now identified a leak from the pump, so I'm guessing that's the root of the problem. I'm at a loss to explain why it worked for a longer time after the filter clean, and then back to far shorter periods, but I figure that's a side issue. From reading other postings on here I gather that it's best just to replace the pump, but a new one will need setting up from scratch and I don't have the equipment or expertise to do that. I'm getting an engineer in to do the job but while I'm waiting for him to get back to me I think I'll see if I can get a replacement o-ring for the existing pump, because that seems to be the cause of the leak.
 
I managed to stop the leak from the pump (temporarily at least - it's dripping again now) but it was locking out even when there wasn't so much as a hint of leak. I happened to be next to the boiler at one point when it locked out. It had stopped reached temperature and stopped burning, and I heard a faint click (like a relay activating) which is normally followed by the roar of flame. This time there was no roar, and it locked out.

I guess that confirms that it's a failure to ignite rather than a failure to detect ignition (so rules out the photocell, for example). I would try replacing the capacitor and/or the solenoid, but as the pump clearly needs replacing and I'll need an engineer to set that up safely for me, I might as well let him replace what's necessary.
 
Sorry stix, I wasn't ignoring you - I just missed the EBI unit from the list of things that I would be happy to try swapping out myself. As I said though, the pump is shot anyway. There doesn't seem much point in continuing until that's replaced, and advice on this forum seems to be to leave that to an engineer with the equipment and expertise to set it up efficiently and safely. Apart from anything else, he will (hopefully) have the parts he needs in his van, whereas it's a 30-mile round trip to town for me each time I need to try something else.

Engineer is due to arrive this afternoon so, nice though the wood-burning stove is (it's been a godsend these last few days) I'm looking forward to giving it a break!
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top