Old Boulter Camray combi problem no hot water heating great?

Nixt said:
Have you checked the HW side of the programmer is calling for heat. Also when you turn on tap does pump run? There is a flow switch on the Camray 5 yours is probably the Quartet but would have thought it has a flow switch have u checked under top cover? Theres no point changing parts until you've established why burner won't light.

hi m8 the programmer only controls the heating, nothing on there for the hot water.

and i have had the thing to bits as far as i could and could not find a flow switch. i believe it is a heat bank type without a flow switch?
 
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oilman said:
A possible problem is the thermostatic or blending valve. It is a strange configuration, and unless you want to change the pipe work you need to ensure you get the right one. They ARE a standard type though, so don't let anyone tell you lies.

If the valve does work, then the H/W heat exchanger pipe may be blocked. You could check this if necessary, but in your part of the world, I doubt you suffer from lime scale.


I'll find the part type, as I bought one not long ago.

no lime scale here. a speck of soap and you cannot rinse the suds off :D

the mixing valve has the cold from below, the hot from one side and the mix from the other, i looked at a few off the shelf ones and they all seemed to have hot and cold at the sides with the mix out the bottom?

if you could find the part type that would really help

thanks
 
If there isn't then the pump, boiler and diverter would not get a signal to tell it is in dhw mode (assuming there is no mechanical diverter assembly). The store stat can call for heat but it can't tell which mode is running without a signal.
 
Nixt said:
If there isn't then the pump, boiler and diverter would not get a signal to tell it is in dhw mode (assuming there is no mechanical diverter assembly). The store stat can call for heat but it can't tell which mode is running without a signal.

i dont know m8?

it has two dial type controls on the front, and the left hand one says priority stat with a neon marked hot water priority and the summer / winter switch.

the right hand one says control with a limit and a lockout neon lights and the on / off switch

the controller is a horstmann centaur plus c17
that just has controls for the central heating times / constant ect nothing for H/W at all
 
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No - I was refering to the function of the flow switch not the user controls.
 
The information given so far is conflicting!

If the store water is hot then the boiler is heating it and the blending valve is stuck.

If the store is not being heated then either the temperature sensor is faulty or the diverter valve!

Surely you can feel the store and see if its hot?

Tony
 
You're right Agile but the OP has also indicated that the burner doesn't fire when dhw is ran which should happen eventually. If store stat fault is preventing firing at least the pump should operate on a Boulter.
 
Agile said:
The information given so far is conflicting!

If the store water is hot then the boiler is heating it and the blending valve is stuck.

If the store is not being heated then either the temperature sensor is faulty or the diverter valve!

Surely you can feel the store and see if its hot?

Tony

the store is under a metal cover and insulation layer in with the boiler itself. the outflow pipe that connects to the mixer valve from the store is warm/ hot if the heating has been on or is running. if the heating is not on or has not run reciently then the outflow pipe is cold.
when i turn on a hot tap the boiler does not light.

i get a small amount of hot water if the heating is running, but only a few pints of hot before it runs cool

so i think the mixer is probably ok ?

and if it is then perhaps it is the temp sensor ??
 
Then switch to summer turn up dhw setting and check if stat has failed in open circuit.
 
Never mind the philosophical discussion, there are few here who have seen this boiler, let alone fixed it. The Greeks used to do this to work out how many teeth a horse had. Then some philistine spoilt it all by counting them :rolleyes:

You can take the blending valve off and play with it and a kettle of hot water. If it doesn't move then it probably just needs a service kit. Get in touch with Altecnic to ask about the kit.

This seems like it might help http://www.caleffi.com/en_IT/Series/5/520/520-details.shtml

You need the 520 540.

If it isn't the valve then the stat or te pmp cold be the problem, and from what I remember there is a circuit diagram printed inside the case somewhere.
 
That maybe the case Oilman but I think we've all (you included) worked on enough similar ones to know that if the store does not heat up then tinkering with the blending valve won't make a fathing's difference.
 
Nixt said:
Then switch to summer turn up dhw setting and check if stat has failed in open circuit.

just put a meter across it and getting no circuit.

ran the hot tap and still the same.
 
R u checking for continuity because if you're looking for 240 remember both ends will be live and therefore not give a reading. The other way is of course to check each against a L-N or L-E.
 
oilman said:
Never mind the philosophical discussion, there are few here who have seen this boiler, let alone fixed it. The Greeks used to do this to work out how many teeth a horse had. Then some philistine spoilt it all by counting them :rolleyes:

You can take the blending valve off and play with it and a kettle of hot water. If it doesn't move then it probably just needs a service kit. Get in touch with Altecnic to ask about the kit.

This seems like it might help http://www.caleffi.com/en_IT/Series/5/520/520-details.shtml

You need the 520 540.

If it isn't the valve then the stat or te pmp cold be the problem, and from what I remember there is a circuit diagram printed inside the case somewhere.

thats the beastie, in fact i think that is the one fitted on it, perhaps it has been changed in the past.
i will save the link thanks m8.

But it looks like it might be the stat, i have just put my multi meter across it and got open circuit with the heat store both hot and cold.
(the heating has been on)

any idea where i can get a replacement stat or its part no?

thanks
 
Nixt said:
R u checking for continuity because if you looking for 240 remember both ends will be live and therefore not give a reading. The other way is of course to check each against a L-N or L-E.

no i did a resistance reading with the wires disconnected.

if there was any connection in the stat i would have a reading, but there was nothing, it was completly open circuit
 

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