Omnicron 7000 Panel to Odyssey 1E Bell Box

[pedxxx]

I wonder if somebody could help as I have little experience of this sort of thing.

The old bell was rusted up and I decided to buy the Odyssey siren/strobe unit.

I'm not bothering with tamper so I'm using 4 core cable

The Omnicron 7000 has

- Bell
+ Bell
+ Strobe
- Strobe
+ Set

The bellbox has

A (12V) Permanent Positive Supply
B (Bell) Negative Applied Output to Activate Siren
C (TAMP) Negative Removed on Tamper Input
D (0V) Permanent Negative Supply
S (STRB) Negative Applied Output to Activate Strobe


I've so far switched the JCP1 battery jumper on and the LEDs come on OK and I can get the siren to sound if connected directly to the panel battery. I have took advice and connected the + Bell connection from the panel to the A (12V) and the Bell - to the B (Bell). I have also connected B directly to S in the bell box. This was suggested as I was originally going to use 2 core. To cut a long story short, it doesn't work. I would therefore like to do this properly using all 4 wires and I assume I need to again switch JCP1 (Battery) back on in the bell box.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Denford1]

Use the scb connections on the circuit board.

SCB 0v to D
+ siren to A
- siren to B
SCB RT to C
strb - to S

If only using 4 core , I would keep the tamper and connect the strobe to the bell trigger.

HTH.

 

[pedxxx]

Thanks for the swift reply. I'm sounding like a complete novice here, but I don't have a clue what SCB is (I assume you just mean the panel) and I can't see any other connections on the panel apart from what I've mentioned above.

 

[Denford1]

Between the 24hr and PA conections on the Omnicron circuit board.

The siren requires a constant 12v +/- supply to the A and D cons , this charges the battery and holds off the siren.The B / S cons are switched neg from the panel.

 

[pedxxx]

The penny has dropped with this. I didn't see these connectors, but it does fit in with the advice I was given from the original supplier. He drew me a diagram as well which didn't make sense at the time, but it does now.

 

[pedxxx]

Denford, I still haven't actually tried this and won't have time until the weekend. I just want to know one more thing. If I wire this up as you describe, do I need to do anything with the Battery and SCB jumpers on the siren box?

Thanks again

 

[Denford1]

Yes , just leave the jumpers as it came out of the box..battery on , SAB.

 

[pedxxx]

One more thing (I promise). I've finally got around to trying your advice after bad weather and the fact that isn't actually my alarm, it's at my mother's house.

I wired it up as advised this afternoon. I firstly tried with the battery jumper in the on position. No obvious problems until I tried the siren/strobe test from the omni panel. No luck at all. I then tried doing a live test by setting alarm and opening doors. Still nothing from siren.

I went back up the ladders and set battery jumper to off position. This time as it was correctly wired, I got the 2 green leds flashing once the panel was powered back up. I still couldn't get the siren to sound from the panel. I even changed the siren fuse on the panel just in case. I also know that the siren works as I have powered it directly to the battery. Although the alarm panel is now set up OK and there is no danger of the siren going off by accident, it is obviously no good as it won't trigger.

It looks to me as though this panel is faulty and needs changing. Everything else in this scenario has now been changed including the wire. Would you agree with this?

 

[RF Lighting]

Did you try it with the bell lid on and both LEDs flashing?

Texecom boxes have an engineers hold off mode so you don't accidentally perforate your ear drums whilst installing it.

If both LEDs are flashing alernatly about once per second it is in normal mode.

Do you own a multi meter?

 

[pedxxx]

Yes, the bell lid was on and they were flashing alternately. I can probably get a multimeter.