One way Dimmer Switch - four wires.

[wrinx]

Sorry...I've searched here and the net but have only found a wide variety of wiring methods, none of which seem to fit the set-up I have

Conservatory is wired into the Garage 30a ring, light switch to the down lighters was a "30a XDP" switch with a red indicator light??? Not very attractive...

Wiring was simple for that, Supply in L/N and Load L/N which matches the wiring perfectly.

I've bought a 1-g 2 way dimmer with L1, L2 and C.

Can anyone advise how should it be wired for one way use please? Instructions show Lamp to common and mains to L1 but no mention of the black wires...chocolate box?

I was thinking lamp live to common, mains live to L1 and two black in L2, is that the same?

Edit: forgot to mention, the brass switch wasn't earthed either

Steve

 

[EdwardCurrent]

Hello Steve.
Are you saying that your lights have been fed directly off the ring main via a 30A double pole switch ? Or is there a 'fused spur' feeding the lights ?
Regards
Ed.

 

[wrinx]

As far as I'm aware, the live feed comes directly via the 30a fuse in the box.

Yesterday I managed to contact between the two black wires after thinking I'd isolated the lighting circuit! Not happy as you can imagine...that blew the 30a fuse.

Steve

 

[EdwardCurrent]

Sorry Steve but its kind of hard for me to help you without some more info.
Are you able to isolate the lighting circuit without isolating the power ?
This 30A XDP switch, does it have a fuseholder or just a switch ?

Would it be possible for you to post a wiring diagram of what you have, and some pic's please ? (Any pics will do).
Ed

 

[wrinx]

I'm quickly coming to the conclusion I need to get a sparky out to rewire this mess

But...I can pull the 5a fuse on the old Wylex (hence the rewiring thought!) to isolate the downstairs lights. Unfortunately this does not include the conservatory or back porch which are on the aforementioned 30a fuse. But I can of course pull the fuse on this too.

The 30a switch does not have a fuse, just the red indicator light.

Does this answer your questions? Many thanks for your patience

Steve

 

[EdwardCurrent]

Sorry Steve.
As you thought, a sparky might be a good idea.

Double fed circuits, borrowed neutrals etc etc.. Makes for dangerous investigations unless you have the know how and kit.

Sorry I couldn't help you further, but stick around and I am sure others might be able to help you.

All the best and good luck

Ed

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Ed has said it all, really, get an electrician in asap.

 

[sparkydude]

Post some pictures and i am sure we can work out whats happening, sunds like a typical conservatory add on bodge to me, but we should be able to advise much better .

Nick

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Nick, what's happening is that we have:

1) a conservatory with lighting on a socket circuit via a DP switch, no fusing, no guaranteed cpc continuity and possibly a L/N reversal somewhere.

2) an OP who doesn't even understand what a switch does, has no test equipment and has already created a L/N fault, possibly damaging parts of the installation.

Suggesting that he can safely and expeditiously make alterations via advice and diagnosis by photo from this site is irresponsible.

 

[wrinx]

Nick, what's happening is that we have:

1) a conservatory with lighting on a socket circuit via a DP switch, no fusing, no guaranteed cpc continuity and possibly a L/N reversal somewhere.

2) an OP who doesn't even understand what a switch does, has no test equipment and has already created a L/N fault, possibly damaging parts of the installation.

Suggesting that he can safely and expeditiously make alterations via advice and diagnosis by photo from this site is irresponsible.

Thanks for your input, but you've jumped to several incorrect conclusions, this installation is not what I expected hence the post for assistance...I know my limits and have decided to contact an Electrician.

To everyone who has responded and helped without being rude, I thank you for confirming there is a problem (as suspected) which needs rectifying by someone more skilled than I with electrickery, cheers

Steve

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Thanks for your input, but you've jumped to several incorrect conclusions,

Have I?

Which ones?

"a conservatory with lighting on a socket circuit"?
Nope, not that one:

As far as I'm aware, the live feed comes directly via the 30a fuse in the box.

I can pull the 5a fuse on the old Wylex (hence the rewiring thought!) to isolate the downstairs lights. Unfortunately this does not include the conservatory or back porch which are on the aforementioned 30a fuse.

"via a DP switch"?
Nope, not that one:

light switch to the down lighters was a "30a XDP" switch

"no fusing"?
Nope, not that one:

The 30a switch does not have a fuse

"no guaranteed cpc continuity"?
Nope, not that one:

the brass switch wasn't earthed either

(Note - I did say no guaranteed cpc continuity - anybody who doesn't earth a metal switch cannot be trusted not to have screwed up elsewhere in connecting earths.)


"possibly a L/N reversal somewhere"?
Nope, not that one:

Yesterday I managed to contact between the two black wires after thinking I'd isolated the lighting circuit!....that blew the 30a fuse.

So the blacks can't both have been neutrals. And since you appear to have a DP switch off the socket circuit, and don't appear to have a traditional live/switched live drop cable then possibly you have a L/N reversal somewhere.


"an OP who doesn't even understand what a switch does"?
Nope, not that one:

I was thinking lamp live to common, mains live to L1 and two black in L2, is that the same?

"has no test equipment"?
Nope, not that one:

after thinking I'd isolated the lighting circuit

"and has already created a L/N fault"?
Nope, not that one:

Yesterday I managed to contact between the two black wires... that blew the 30a fuse.

"possibly damaging parts of the installation"?
Nope, not that one - it's not at all unheard of for switches or cables to be damaged by a short circuit, particularly when the protection is rewirable fuses, which do not react quickly.


"Suggesting that he can safely and expeditiously make alterations via advice and diagnosis by photo from this site is irresponsible"?
Nope, not that one - given all of the above it was irresponsible of Nick to suggest that you might try DIYing on the basis of advice and photo diagnoses.


So I can't actually see one false conclusion, let alone several.

To everyone who has responded and helped without being rude,

Nobody has been rude.

 

[wrinx]

I'm really not interested in arguing semantics with you on a forum...you obviously have more free time than I.

I came here for some friendly advice which I've received, thanks to the other contributors.

Steve

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I'm really not interested in arguing semantics with you on a forum

So you accuse me of jumping to incorrect conclusions, I go through every one of my conclusions and show that not one of them is incorrect, and then you say that you aren't interested in "arguing semantics".

If you aren't interested in paying attention to what I meant then don't make false accusations based on your laziness.

I came here for some friendly advice which I've received, thanks to the other contributors.

And the post of mine which you objected to was aimed at stopping you getting unfriendly, or at least irresponsible and possibly dangerous, advice.

But as you say - you really can't be bothered to consider what people mean when they write things here, so maybe it's best if you just go away.

 

[RF Lighting]

 

[bloxy]