Options for running kitchen extractor outside

[mjgreen81]

Hi all,


In the house I moved into the extractor fan in the kitchen just pumps the air out of the top of the cabinet. I am finding it doesn't do a good enough job and leaves the kitchen too stinky (I have changed the charcoal filter and it doesn't help much). I have checked and the extractor can also extract via an external vent and I would like to try this option.


Handily, I already have a vent hole on the external wall where I presume a previously installed kitchen did have an externally vented extractor fan. The hole has just been covered up with a thin piece of wood on the internal wall in the 20mm gap between the wall and side of the wall cabinet.


I would like to try and use this hole by running the vent pipe over the top of the cabinet down into the cabinet closest to the wall and out of the hole.


The problem is that the hole sits exactly where the fixing is (I think it's a Camar 806). Is there anyway that I can move or change this fixing so that I can still cut this hole without the cabinet falling off the wall? What options do I realistically have without removing the wall cabinet?


Thank you

 

[foxhole]

The screw below. Is this into side wall?

 

[yorksbuilder]

Run it above the units in flat plastic ducting

 

[mjgreen81]

The screw below. Is this into side wall?

No, that was actually a screw I put through to see where exactly in the existing hole in the external wall it would pop out so I knew roughly where I would need to cut in the cupboard side . It's not doing anything other than acting as a marker.

 

[mjgreen81]

Run it above the units in flat plastic ducting

That's not the issue, the issue is how I get it through the side of the cabinet and use the existing hole in the external wall.

 

[denso13]

It's not doing anything other than acting as a marker.

Move the screw up or down so the unit can be fixed to the wall. Then you can remove the bracket.

 

[mjgreen81]

Move the screw up or down so the unit can be fixed to the wall. Then you can remove the bracket.

There is a 20mm gap between the side of the cabinet and the wall (you can't see this from the front view as there is trim covering the gap). The image below shows the gap at the side of the cabinet a d the thin piece of wood covering the external wall hole for the old vent.

Even if I was able to pack this out or something, I'm not sure if these cabinets are designed to be fixed by the side or are they specifically meant to be fixed at the rear?

 

[denso13]

I'm not sure if these cabinets are designed to be fixed by the side or are they specifically meant to be fixed at the rear?

As long as it's solidly fixed it doesn't matter.

 

[foxhole]

Your cupboard is currently fixed to rear via the sides, most cupboards are .(Your bracket is on the side not the rear .)

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I'm not sure if these cabinets are designed to be fixed by the side or are they specifically meant to be fixed at the rear?

The bracket, taking the weight at the moment, is fixed by two screws to the side panel - so it is obvious, the side panel is designed to take the weight. All you need to do, is add some fixing through the side panel, into that side wall, but include some suitable thickness of spacers, between the panel, and the wall.

 

[mjgreen81]

Do you think cutting a hole in the corner or the unit (and having to remove part of the top and side of the unit to run the vent pipe will effect the integrity of the unit?)

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Do you think cutting a hole in the corner or the unit (and having to remove part of the top and side of the unit to run the vent pipe will effect the integrity of the unit?)

No, once properly supported as a first step.

 

[denso13]

Do you think cutting a hole in the corner or the unit (and having to remove part of the top and side of the unit to run the vent pipe will effect the integrity of the unit?)

Not at all, if fixed at the side.

 

[chirpychippy]

You can buy 220mm x 60mm flat channel duct and run it across the top of the units through the wall and into a plastic airbrick externally, this is the better option for the motor in the extractor.

It depends on whether the brick course externally line up with the plane of the top of the units or is very close.

You can go through the top and side of the wall unit, but you will either need to stick with a plastic airbrick or drill a 6 inch core hole.

For every 90 degree bend you put into a run of ducting you are effectively adding 1 metre to the run.

You can buy a rectangular to round adaptor for 220x60 flat channel then you will need a short run of 6 inch flexi duct to bridge the cavity before attaching to a 6 inch gravity flap.

You can buy the whole lot from TLC Electrical Wholesalers or isells Ducting & Ventilation who are on line.

 

[yorksbuilder]

204mm x 60mm to 5 inch Round Adaptor | Manrose (55700 / MONV5613)

Beat me to it Chirpy