Ordering windows direct from manufacturer - tips on measuring & design

[olly330]

Need to get new windows ordered by Monday, I have found a well priced supplier in the midlands (im in manchester) who use VEKA profile which i have heard is the best. They are a trade counter and dont do any design or give measuring advice etc, so its up to me and the builder to get it right.

My builder has fitted windows many times but usually just fits them and doesn't measure, any advice on measuring up that I can give to my builder, using veka system 10.

Also- as im not using a retail window place that give you ideas on design etc, im thinking one of the following designs for the front of the house, see images below, the red dots are all top openers. Any advice on which design works best, im trying to balance the look of the 3 front windows.

At the back of the house I will have 1 side opener in the bedroom and 1 side opener in the bathroom, I need to take fire escapes into consideration.... im not sure on the legislation but is 1 upstairs window that allows fire escape enough?


1 Upstairs front small bedroom – 2 top openers 1710w x 1190h
2 Upstairs master bedroom – 2 top openers 2340w x 1200h
3 Back bedroom – 1 side opener 1740w x 1140h
4 Bathroom small – 1 top opener, obscured glass 340w x 720h
5 Bathroom big – 1 side opener, obscured glass 1150w 1000h
6 Hallway upstairs – 1 top opener, obscured glass 570w x 1020h
7 Downstairs new wc – 1 top opener, obscured glass 340w x 720h
8 Living room – 2 top openers 2890w x 1470h
9 Kitchen – 2 side openers 1530w x 1060h


Composite front door 860w x 2020h
Patio sliding doors 1770w x 2000h

 

[olly330]

I could really do with a window desginer to help on this! Should have gone for supply and fit, much easier as they would have planned it all for me

 

[God]

If your trying to balance it and you can afford the extra get dummy sashes

 

[olly330]

If your trying to balance it and you can afford the extra get dummy sashes

Thanks, is that like the below, so that the line looks uniform ?
Put simply for someone thick like me, does it mean that the windows that dont open all match up with the windows that do ?

 

[God]

correct

 

[crank39]

Don't forget that you can't make the ventilation worse by swapping side openers for top openers, and for that matter losing your fire egress points - theres a lot to learn in this window fitting and surveying lark you know

 

[Gazman16]

I was just going to say you will get in all sorts of trouble without fire egress in each room.
Seriously the surveying and complying with the few thousand pages of regulations is one of the hardest parts.

Surveying is a skill that comes with having removed and fitted thousands of doors/windows. I would recommend getting someone in.
Too many things that you can do wrong (especially with only a couple of days!) that could cost you thousands.

Where abouts are you?

 

[olly330]

Thanks for all advice. Yes, it's more than I thought it would be, definitely shouldn't have committed to the builder fitting them as it's working out way harder to manage the design which I shouldn't really have to spend so much time researching, it's like I need a degree in this .

I'm in Ashton under Lyne, Manchester area

 

[Gazman16]

Each make of windows and doors can have there own little quirks too so its best to know the profile you are measuring for well too.
I spend quite alot of my time taking out and refitting windows that have been done incorrectly by builders. You may have a good builder who knows what hes doing but generally you want a window fitter as it really is a trade in itself.


Have you tried some local company's for quotes both supply and fit and supply only?

All of the major makes are pretty much the same, Just slightly different moldings/styles. (except Duraflex, stay away from that rubbish)
Veka arnt any better or worse than the other makes, Their only real advantage is the network Veka guarantees and approved installers but as you wernt going to have them installed by an approved company there is no point really.

If you do go ahead by yourself at least brickwork is the easiest to measure and fit.
Measure multiple points height & width and deduct 10mm from the smallest of each.
Anything within 800mm of the floor or 300mm of a door must have toughened glass
Fire egress openers must have a minimum 450mm x 450mm clear opening that equals 0.33m2 (note 450 x 450 in less than 0.33m2 so not complaint) and must have an egress opener in every habitable room that is not directly connected to a hall that leads to an exit. (as a general rule this just means upstairs bedrooms).

And the biggest fitting problems when done by builder/diyers:
1. silicone the back edge and ends!!!!! of the cill before putting the window on top. (30 second job but if not done can cause leaks and the whole window needs to come out).
2. Fit square, Level and plumb!

 

[olly330]

Thanks Gazman, that was really useful advice.
I went into a local trade counter who were very helpful and drew up some designs based on the measurements I gave them so im getting there.

Changed mind and not having sliding doors at the back, going to have french doors there now, didn't change the price much at all.

One thing I am concerned about is I am having a small wc window put in at the front of the house, and want to make sure it wasn't big enough to entice burglars. The dimensions of the frame are in the image below, I don't know how wide the pvcu frame is around the glass so cant quite make out if its small enough to not attract any local scrotes trying to climb through it. I could make it smaller as its new a brickwork opening being built so its up to me really. Would this be quite a small window already and small enough for burglar not to bother, or should I go reduce the height? I may put laminated glass into it as I heard its hard to break.

Next thing, trickle vents, yes or no ?

Finally, the composite door, anyone heard of distinction doors, and are they decent?

https://www.distinctiondoors.co.uk/products/


Cheers, I owe you all a drink

 

[Gazman16]

Frame will be 70mm thick and cill 30mm. So open width will be 260mm wide x 350mm - the sash which will take up about anther 100mm when in the open position. so approx 260mm x 250mm, They would have to be pretty damn small to get in.

Trickle vents are basically just a big hole through your expensive new thermally efficient windows so no, But.......
Extensions, New opening (like this window?) rooms with a un-vented gas appliance must have them.
Also if the old window have them they must be replaced on the new windows (or another suitable ventilation method)

Have heard of Distinction but haven't fitted them. I think they are ok. Try for a price in your local Eurocell branch too they can be quite good for prices

 

[olly330]

Thanks again, managed to get the order in now after a lot of help from theplasticsdepot and they were the cheapest too.

Another question. Got a roofer sorting the guttering out (cutting off concrete gutters, new fascia boards and new gutters) (we wont be putting in a soffit due to matching with rest of the street)

Just wanted to make sure the new fascia boards wont obstruct the opening of the windows as our new ones are side openers. The next door neighbor to the right has got a similar style as im getting in their upstairs windows, but not sure if its a side opener like our design or a bottom opener.

Not sure whether I need to tell the roofer to maybe fit a smaller height profile of fascia, or whether maybe we need to adjust something on the manufacture, or probably nothing to worry about.

Have a look at the pics mate and see what you think, to me it looks like the neighbour to the right's windows are just a few cm under the fascia board. I have asked the roofer too so will wait to see what he says.

Thanks again.

 

[Gazman16]

I would be looking at the neighbor to the left as I would guess you will just match that and follow the line through.
To be safe you could hold off ordering those window until the gutter/fascia is done. You certainly don't want to fit them before they angle grind off the Flintlock gutters!

Hard to tell from a pic but would probably be fine. You generally have about 38mm from the top of the frame to the top of the sash (check with the supplier though as different makes can vary). If needs be you can specify a heavy duty head (extra 15mm or so) and or addons.

 

[olly330]

Thanks again Gazman your a top man.
I asked the manufacturer to put a 30mm knock on to the top of the upstairs windows frames to be on the safe side. Hoping all will be well.