Outside Lights - PIR

[F1903]

Hi,

I currently have a light switch at the front door not doing anything at the moment.

I wish to take a cable, a 2 core and earth from it to an outside built in PIR activation light then daisy chain the wiring to another two built in PIR activated lights. I understand I might have to use JBs at each as I will have a pre made flex and two mains legs at a couple.

Will this work? Will each light just switch on individually when each PIR is activated?

Thanks

 

[chivers67]

They should switch on individually. You can get some PIR lights with a test switch to utilise when you want it on permanently when working near them so it maybe best to run three core & earth if this is something you'd like?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Is there a Neutral wire at the switch? Your new lights and PIRs won't work without one.

 

[F1903]

Is there a Neutral wire at the switch? Your new lights and PIRs won't work without one.

View attachment 328784

I have edited the post, built in PIRs with the lights. Does this still require a 3 core and earth?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I wish to take a cable, a 2 core and earth from it to an outside

You will need both live, or switched live - plus a neutral. There may not be a neutral at the switch.

 

[F1903]

You will need both live, or switched live - plus a neutral. There may not be a neutral at the switch.

From the switch to first light? 3 core and earth?

So at the switch…..Switch live into L1 and permanent feed into Com? Plus neutral.

Will my floodlights come with 3 core and earth on the pre made flex?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

So at the switch…..Switch live into L1 and permanent feed into Com? Plus neutral.

Yes, plus a neutral - not many switches include a neutral, have you investigated?

 

[F1903]

Yes, plus a neutral - not many switches include a neutral, have you investigated?

Yes, the switch has a neutral, wired in twin and earth.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Yes, the switch has a neutral, wired in twin and earth.

Is it actually a neutral? If there is only a twin and earth at the switch, then it will be a live (red), and switch wire (black). If that is the case, then you will probably need to pick up a neutral from a light on the same circuit - must be from the same circuit.

 

[ericmark]

If you have a neutral it is likely the wire is in a junction block not the switch, but easy way is to post a picture. I still have a couple of PIR lights, never bothered removing the PIR, I find PIR's are a pain in the neck, good ones have settings for lux, time, and sensitivity, but many don't, so I would start off from the car with a hand full of shopping, only for the lights to switch off before I have got inside, and every time the wind blows they come on.

I now where I can use smart socket adaptors, smart switches or smart bulbs, so I can turn on lights when I want them, and they don't auto switch off at most inopportune moments.

 

[ebee]

To use overide switches or to make one light on then all lights on (some PIR floods permit this and some do not) you need a Permanent Line, a Switched Line and a Neutral - plus an earth of course).
The Permanent Line (along with the Neutral) ensures that the unit works as a stand alone PIR Flood, the Switched Line becomes active fot the flloodlight to switch on - if the PIR switch part of the PIR floodlight assembly is capable of powering more than just its own floodlight then you can get it to switch more than 1 flood on if any PIR switch detects, up to the maximum rating of the PIR switch.

Lets say for example you have 6 PIR flood units each at 20w and each of those PIR switches can easily handle 120w and they are all of a type that allows the switched line to be on without locking on the PIR floodlight (usually if the output inside the unit is a relay, you might be able to hear it ping) , then each one has an overide switch (example, a switch that connects L1 to Com for ON) .

Additionally, either simultaneously or independantaly, you could have a 6 gang switch with all the L1 terminals having a connection to a SW L conductor and all of the sic COM terminals linked together via one conductor (effectively a "bus bar") ,
Any PIR switch detects will put on all floods linked on by that switch assembly.

Of course they all need to be on the same circuit.

That way you can set up and test each individual PIR Flood assembly with all of those switches in the OFF position, then once done you can put the relative switches to the ON position to link them.

If your existing switch has only T & E then it will only have Perm Line and Switched Line and no Neutral.

As Eric has mentioned, you might find it usefull to use Smart units instead.