Outside Tap Replacement

[rsbhj]

Hey

I had these taps put on summer 21 as part of a kitchen refit, there was a shortage apparently of taps, pipes, joints cant recall what he said and this is what I got, tbh with some of the issues I think it was the fitter taking rubbish...anyway one tap is hot one cold. Behind the wall is plastic piping, bends with a joint to more plastic piping and have a stop value further along. There is no access to this bend to change without removing integrated dishwater.

The issue is the hot water one, the white pipe outside that you can see in photo has cracked. Cold is fine

Whats best way to replace?

Replace the outside Plastic Pipe and insulate in winter/turn off?
Replace the outside plastic pipe with copper?
Is there a better connection to attach to the plastic pipe coming out the wall and fit a new tap directly on to that connector?
Any other ideas, baring in mind no access to the pipe coming out the wall form the inside other than to steady the pipe from the inside, i.e can get hand along to hold it while a new connector is fitted on the outside.

I hope that makes some sense.

 

[Exedon]

To be fair at one point hose union bib taps were in very short supply.
But that's a poor install I know it's not what you want to hear but I would start again
We use the back plate with 15mm attached.
Do you have double check non return valves inside?
If not that's a illegal install.

 

[Dereekoo]

To be fair at one point hose union bib taps were in very short supply.
But that's a poor install I know it's not what you want to hear but I would start again
We use the back plate with 15mm attached.
Do you have double check non return valves inside?
If not that's a illegal install.

It might be against regs but nothing to fret about the water companies do not have a surveillance police force.
I'd replace the bits of plastic with copper and in future isolate and leave the taps open in winter, you could also put a tap insulation box around it as belt and braces and if you really want to go OTT change the bottom bend for a tee with a blanking cap on the bottom which you could take off in winter to drain any residual water.

 

[rsbhj]

Is this what you mean...double check non return valves?

 

[conny]

My first question is, why do you need a hot supply outside?
Second question, is the crack in that short section of plastic pipe or inside the wall?
If it's that short section of plastic I would isolate the supply, (yes, I know it means moving the dishwasher, but when you do this, you could fit another isolator away from behind the dishwasher, leave the one behind the dishwasher switched on when you are putting it back in place, and then use the new, accessible isolator in future). So, now you have isolated the supply, disconnect the outside tap from that piece of plastic, fit a length of 15mm copper, re-fit tap and lag the entire assembly to prevent future freeze ups. Don't wait till winter to insulate them. It may be too late if we get an unexpected sudden drop in temperature.
As Exedon says, you also need non-return check valves installed to comply with regs.
If you need a plumber to do the job make sure he is qualified to do it and not just a jobber plumber.

 

[rsbhj]

The crack is on the small plastic pipe that can been seen in the photo outside.

I can isolate at that value under the sink, I just cant access beyond the dashed lines in the sketch, hence not really wanting to change the set up inside.

 

[Dereekoo]

My first question is, why do you need a hot supply outside?
Second question, is the crack in that short section of plastic pipe or inside the wall?
If it's that short section of plastic I would isolate the supply, (yes, I know it means moving the dishwasher, but when you do this, you could fit another isolator away from behind the dishwasher, leave the one behind the dishwasher switched on when you are putting it back in place, and then use the new, accessible isolator in future). So, now you have isolated the supply, disconnect the outside tap from that piece of plastic, fit a length of 15mm copper, re-fit tap and lag the entire assembly to prevent future freeze ups. Don't wait till winter to insulate them. It may be too late if we get an unexpected sudden drop in temperature.
As Exedon says, you also need non-return check valves installed to comply with regs.
If you need a plumber to do the job make sure he is qualified to do it and not just a jobber plumber.

Why does it matter hot water is needed that's their business.
It talks about the crack being in the plastic pipe that can be seen in the photo?
I take it that the isolation valve isfurther along from the inside bend and not behind the dishwasher?
OP, that just looks like an isolation valve, no check flaps.

 

[foxhole]

Is this what you mean...double check non return valves?

No this is one

Flomasta Double Check Valve 15mm - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Brass, steel and plastic construction. Suitable for water. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

allow flow in one direction only.

 

[denso13]

Is this what you mean...double check non return valves?

No, that is just an isolator, and very poorly fitted. You need check valves.

 

[Dereekoo]

Op you have 3 suggestions, pick as you deem fit.

 

[rsbhj]

Thats the only value I can see, there are others values beyond that, I have a 4-1 tap so under the sink is like a maze in all honesty

Its sounds as if this is not a simple DIY job of new connector onto the plastic pipe at the wall and tap fitted...I'll look to get in a plumber I trust that did the bathroom.

 

[Dereekoo]

No, that is just an isolator, and very poorly fitted. You need check valves.

No, that is just an isolator, and very poorly fitted. You need check valves.

Certainly should be no need for PTFE tape but if its not leaking all is good. If the pipe hadn't cracked the OP would have happily used his taps for the next 40 years with or without a check valve with everyone none the wiser ( except the original plumber, perhaps)

 

[Dereekoo]

Thats the only value I can see, there are others values beyond that, I have a 4-1 tap so under the sink is like a maze in all honesty

Its sounds as if this is not a simple DIY job of new connector onto the plastic pipe at the wall and tap fitted...I'll look to get in a plumber I trust that did the bathroom.

Its as complicated as you want to make it but if you are not at ease with replacing 2 bits of plastic pipe then yes employment of a plumber is the way forward.

 

[denso13]

I'll look to get in a plumber I trust that did the bathroom

Get him to fit check valves if there aren't any, best do it properly.

 

[rsbhj]

Nothing leaking...there seems to be PTFE tape on most joins similar to that, the day may come when we have to look at re doing under the sink but not at that stage yet.

If the best soloution is to replace with copper from after the value in the sketch, I will have to get someone in and get the dishwasher removed, as no way to get a copper pipe in without access behind the dishwasher