Oven Replacement Question

[johnagall]

I'm replacing my under the counter electric oven in the next couple of weeks but according to the reviews for my new oven people have said they had to have it hard wired in.

The oven is on its own separate from the gas hob and the current oven runs from a socket behind it which is linked to an isolator socket on the worktop see this picture.



Is it possible for me to stick a plug onto the new oven and run it from the socket already in place?

 

[securespark]

Impossible to say from the info you have given.

What is the maximum load of the oven?

 

[knowall]

Hi, you appear to have an adequate existing suppy. Hard wired means - not a plug and socket, get an electrician to connect you're oven, you already have the suppy.

kind regards,

KA

 

[johnagall]

Impossible to say from the info you have given.

What is the maximum load of the oven?

Apologies the replacement has a total load rating of 3.5 KW.

I'd prefer to do it myself if possible but if I can't how much do you think I should expect to pay? I'm in London.

Thanks for the quick responses guys

 

[Taylortwocities]

Is it possible for me to stick a plug onto the new oven and run it from the socket already in place?

You said that

the replacement has a total load rating of 3.5 KW

3.5KW is too much for a 13amp plug so no you cannot just plug it in.

If there's a 13A socket connected to the cable from the cooker isolation switch then it may just be a case of changing the socket for a cooker connection plate, All you'd need then is a length of 6mm heat resistant cable.

An easy DIY job. An hour's job at the most for an electrician (if you can find one who can be bothered to do such a trivial job.)
How much? It depends on the electrician. These guys charge £90 per hour in Central London thats about 3 times the rate out in the sticks!!!

 

[ericmark]

As already said over 3kW will need cooker connection unit not a socket and what has to be checked is the cable size from cooker isolator to existing socket if it is same size as cable which supplies the cooker isolator then it's just a case of swapping socket for cooker connection unit but if smaller size then may need the cable renewing or some other method to prevent the cable from being overloaded in the event of a fault.

13A sockets should be where free air will cool the plug as with a 13A plug there is a fuse in the plug which will get hot. With very low power units like a waste disposal unit fitting a 13A socket in a cupboard may not be what should be done but it does mean it can easy be removed for maintenance so with 3A or 5A fuse in the plug not really a problem. However with an oven which will need a 13A fuse if under 3kW then it should either be in a FCU which will transfer heat to wall or the plug should be in free air to cool the plug.

The fact that the socket was in a cupboard therefore rings alarm bells as to the skill of the person who fitted it. So you do need to check on cable sizes not just swap socket for cooker connection unit.

As to cost to have it done well likely will be minimum charge that however changes area to area. Here in the country often 1.5 hours because of travel involved to get from house to house in towns it could be as low as half and hour. London with the traffic and parking problems likely higher than say Chester so not only looking at rate per hour but minimum time charged so really impossible to work out.

 

[johnagall]

Hi guys,

Delayed response as I put this off for a while but now I have to get cracking.

Here's some further info which will hopefully help you to help.

The oven in question is this one here:
http://www.johnlewis.com/zanussi-zo...15?tmcampid=51&tmad=c&s_pccid=pc_pr_200_40000

I have been told that it is 3.5kw and requires 15-20 amp connection.

Here are some photos of the space and the wiring from the worktop fused switch to the socket where the current oven is plugged in:


jpg images

screen shot windows 7


Now I was hoping that I could simply buy one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-45a-cooker-connection-unit/47806

And hook up the oven and mains supply to it like in this video:

Am I being wildly optimistic here? or does that sound ok?

 

[phatboy]

The cable behind that socket looks like its 4mm to me, which is sufficient for a 20amp load.

You need to check at your CU what rating is on the breaker / fuse for the 'Cooker' circuit.

But it does look like it will be OK with your proposed solution, dependent on the breaker / fuse in the CU.

 

[johnagall]

Thanks for such a quick response buddy. As you can tell I'm crap at this kind of thing.

Here's a photo of the box, does this help clarify all?


free image hosting

 

[phatboy]

OK, going by that the MCB is rated at 32amp. On closer inspection the cable looks like 6mm as it pretty much fills the sockets terminal, so yes it should be absolutely fine to replace the socket with your new CCU, and connect the oven up that way

 

[johnagall]

Cheers again. Much appreciated