Overflow from attic leaking

[von555]

Yesterday I noticed this overflow leaking:

I noticed it some 3 hours after dynarod had blasted a waterjet up to the stack (to sort out a blockage).

1) Are the events related? 2) What do I do to fix?

I've been up into the attic (tight fit) and there's a water tank connected to the pipe (with a plastic ball inside...).

Thanks in advance.

 

[Agile]

Look into the storage tank at the ball valve.

Wiggle it up and down as it may have become stuck down.

If you cannot deal with it then take a picture and post that.

Tony

 

[von555]

Okay just gave that a go. The water level seems very close to the top of the pipe. Wiggling the ball didn't seem to do too much (though when I pressed it down water did enter (and the pipe overflowed).

 

[Burnerman]

If this leak is very recent then the ball valve needs a new washer as the tank is overfilling.
With this type of valve the brass stem is bent downwards carefully to adjust the water level.
The tank will either be your cold water header tank, or the flow and expansion tank for the heating system, and the valve is a type 1.
John

 

[von555]

I believe the leak is recent. The pipe overflows onto a conservatory, so the large amount of water pouring out of the pipe yesterday alerted me to the problem. The reason I thought it might be connected with dynarod is because they fixed a blockage the same day (of course it may have been a slow leak for longer - or frozen solid over the winter). At the moment

I see on the FAQ about a part number etc - but it this really doable myself?

It doesn't seem to be even slow trickling now, so I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens.

If I need a new washer, what washer do I wish a washer for?

 

[Burnerman]

Before you get stuck in, you'll have to reduce the level of water in the tank to an acceptable level.
Your original valve certainly shows a fair bit of corrosion, and sometimes they just don't want to come undone in situ. However, the round cap on the end of the valve unscrews to let the jumper and washer out, once the split pin has been removed and the brass stem withdrawn.
If it was mine, I'd replace the type 1 valve with a type 2 (much easier to adjust, and maintain) and also have a full bore isolator tap put on the feed to the tank so that it can be easily controlled in years to come.
John

 

[von555]

Ok. All good advice. I will keep an eye on it and if it continues get a plumber. I don't want to make a bodge of it and ruin the ceiling etc, but I guess shouldn't be difficult for a professional?

 

[Burnerman]

No, its one of the easier jobs, and so long as the mains water supply can be isolated it won't be a problem.
John

 

[tincup]

Get a fishing net and scoop out those floating bits. They get in the pipework cause more trouble.

 

[Agile]

You should use a mug and take out about 6 litres until the ball valve just startes to let water in.

Then watch it and see if it turns off the flow as the water rises to cover perhaps a quarter of the height of the ball float.

It should positively turn off the water flow.

Tony

 

[von555]

So I just had another look this morning. The pipe on the outside has a big icycle hanging off it. Opening up the tank reveals the water level is much lower than it was yesterday (about 4 or 5 inches below the pipe). Outside the tank is a tap (which I confirmed is the supply to the tank). Turning it off stopped the tank from refilling. I did notice a drip drip drip from the valve (? the bit attached to the ball). Presumably it is a washer then? If I am replacing it etc are there any more detailed instructions before I give it a go (or should I just leave it)?

 

[Burnerman]

The valve is obviously letting water by, albeit a small amount.
Its not a good idea to leave it....if the icicle blocks up the overflow pipe, the water level will eventually rise above the top of the tank and drip down onto a ceiling.
Ideally, replace the valve or the washer - you may find it easier to remove the valve from the tank anyway so you may as well fit a new one.
The pipe connector to the valve has a fibre washer in place usually and its worth while picking up one of those too.
See if you can maintain the tank water level a couple of inches down from the overflow when the job is done.
John

 

[von555]

Cheers for the advice John. Understanding that this is the first time I've ever looked inside a water tank, am I basically following the FAQ: "You will need to purchase a new (part 2) float valve BS1212."

Also is the tap on the side of the tank enough to stop the mains (or am I looking for a mains tap to the whole house)? When I turned the tap it didn't fill when I pushed down on the ball.

Lastly, does the new float valve come with a ball or do I just fit on the old one?

 

[Burnerman]

Hello again
It seems that your tank has its own isolator valve - if you turn it off and water doesn't flow when you press the orange float down then it must have.
The ball float can be unscrewed and reused if you wish, so long as the plastic threads are ok - they usually are.
Check out Toolstation 55538 for a pic of a type 2 valve, or 94377 for a type 1.
Good luck with it!
John

 

[Agile]

Or just call a local plumber to do it for you.

If you have access to the loft it should not be very expensive. We used to charge £48 in our local area but with so many travelling delays in London we now quote £65 assuming there is an isolating valve or way to turn the water supply off.

Tony