Thanks. I haven't tried this, have you seen this method work in practice?Have you tried gently abrading with a green scouring pad and lots of water?
Wonderful, thank you, I'll give it a try!I've done it oon a number of occasions
The problem about using acetone, or for that matter any other solvent to remove the white paint is that there is a risk that the solvent well dissolve the flooring finish beneath the contaminant. So whilst there is a concern about dissolving the paint, similar consideration should be given to what will happen to the finish of the floor beneath. (The flooring is a herringbone pattern, which suggests to me that it could well be parquet - its' condition suggests that it may be modern, or possibly relaid or refinished at some time, so the finish could be just about anything)If it is waterbased paint then you can use acetone to remove the paint.
The problem about using acetone, or for that matter any other solvent to remove the white paint is that there is a risk that the solvent well dissolve the flooring finish beneath the contaminant. So whilst there is a concern about dissolving the paint, similar consideration should be given to what will happen to the finish of the floor beneath. (The flooring is a herringbone pattern, which suggests to me that it could well be parquet - its' condition suggests that it may be modern, or possibly relaid or refinished at some time, so the finish could be just about anything)
As a rule if there is anything like that I start with a coarse dishcloth and plain water, which actually works on emulsion and sometimes on reasonably freshly dripped water-based gloss paints. I assumed that the OP might have already tried that. The next thing is a Scotchbrite scouring pad (white Webrax is better, but not generally something people have at home) and lots of water used with mimimal pressure over a small area - very often if the floor has been waxed it won't take much buffing to lift the ccontamination. Sometimes a well-thinned micro-abrasive such as Farecla works well as a next stage. As ever, the trick is to be very gentle
Before using any sort of solvent on a finished wooden surface I think it's always a good idea to find a hidden corner to try it out first. Acetone, for example, attacks acrylics and cellulose (both used in some finishing products), whilst methylated spirits dissolves shelac-based products (e.g.French polish), etc, etc. Hence my caution
Water-based, but has been set for a long time
As an aside- household ammonia completely breaks down shellac based products. I use it to clean brushes used with shellac based paints. It stinks though. I used to use throw away brushes previously but I am now happy to use £15+ brushes because they will clean up as good as new.Before using any sort of solvent on a finished wooden surface I think it's always a good idea to find a hidden corner to try it out first. Acetone, for example, attacks acrylics and cellulose (both used in some finishing products), whilst methylated spirits dissolves shelac-based products (e.g.French polish), etc, etc. Hence my caution
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