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Painting Exterior Front Door

Discussion in 'Decorating and Painting' started by SproutsDad, 5 Nov 2016.

  1. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    Some advice please on renovating a good, heavy but neglected hardwood mahogany type front door, about 10 years old.

    Inside - surface is fine, just needs prep and re-painting - Dulux Trade satin white w/b I had thought?

    Outside - was painted in oil based Farrow and Ball matt when new, now a few cracks at wood joints (tenon to stile) are opening up and the elements are getting under. Should I just sand, fill and paint and which paint and fillers should I use for the exterior?

    I had looked at Dulux Trade Weathershield quick dry satin grey, water based I presume? I would use the corresponding undercoat I guess. I have used Sikkens on interior and really like it, is there an exterior one a?
    Will 1 litre of each top and undercoat be enough for the one door?

    >> Problem - Top and bottom edges not sealed. I think that the small amount of cracking and wood joint movement may in part be down to the top and bottom edges of the door being open and untreated!. I don't think they have any kind of sealer or primer on them at all and must be open to moisture being taken in?
    What do you suggest I do to those edges, it now feels the wrong season though?

    If I seal them it might trap any moisture in the wood, or should I do it anyway - or just leave alone?

    Logic would suggest that I should first seal the open wood edges, but how and with what?
    I will need to get to the bottom edge which is quite close to the floor. I can remove the door to do it but it is incredibly heavy, but I can do it if necessary?

    Application - I prefer mini rollers but also have Purdy XLElite monarch brushes - most profs seem to prefer the brushes but with QD I seem to find the roller easiest.

    All advice gratefully received.
    Thanks
     
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  3. Chri5

    Chri5

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    IMG_2959.JPG

    Did this door last week in a weathersheild trade QD satin. Used the dark undercoat first. Between coats I used a 120 grade 3m green scratchy (they look like pots scrubbers and you can find them in automotive paint suppliers).

    Pre any paint it was 120g sheets, mid level wire wool and then the 120 green scratchy. Surface bumps were filled with Bonda (a 2 part filler). Mostly done with a 1.5" man made bristle and a 1/2" sash brush for the glazing bars.

    When you use a QD satin have a clean cloth and water nearbye. Just becore you apply the paint moisten the area to be painted. The extra moisture allows you to lay on the paint and finish in a clean stroke avoiding dragging and the paint drying too quickly.

    Have you thought about fitting a drip edge on the base level of the door to push any water away ? That saves taking the door off, and as you say it will then hold any current damp in.

    Best product for wood cracks is a two part filler or epoxy.
     
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  4. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    Thanks for such a detailed response and the photo. I understand and agree with all that you recommend.

    Weather strip - Yes I do have a triangular section mahogany weather strip / deflector that has not been fitted yet.
    Q1 ....Are you proposing that I should fit the weather strip?

    Q2 ....Sealing Top & Bottom Edges - But even with the strip deflecting actual rain, there would surely still be the airborne moisture that can penetrate the bare wood and cause the wood to swell from the inside - or what do you think? For that reason I think I should seal the bare wood at top and bottom, see photo?? I could quite easily reach these edges with brush or pad/roller from above and below without removing the door.
    On the following current thread "
    http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/oak-veneer-door.470119/ "Oak veneer door" - they say .....
    upload_2016-11-6_20-27-20.png

    Q3 - Quantity of paint - will 1 litre of each QD satin and undercoat be enough for one door?

    Thanks for all your help.
     
  5. Robbie uk

    Robbie uk

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    There is no point at all in painting the top edge of the door. To paint the bottom you would have to remove the door first, then paint and leave it somewhere to dry. The door needs to breathe so leave the top and bottom edges alone.
     
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  6. JohnD

    JohnD

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    the bottom of the door is likely to get wet during rain. Mine is inside an open porch, but rain can still blow underneath in storms. The bottom of the door is most likely to be neglected, and is where you find the most rot and worm. The top is less likely to get wet unless very badly-fitting, but I treat all surfaces. A professional painter might not bother with the bits that don't show, but it's my door.

    So I say paint it.

    I am very fond of lift-off hinges, which make the job much easier.

    If you think the door needs to breathe, it's not just the bottom inch, so you can use a porous paint or stain system.
     
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  7. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    Thanks both for your replies.
    As stated earlier ......
    It is on easy fit adjustable chrome heavyweight hinges, but extremely heavy once removed. So with minimum effort I think I'll paint these bare edges, and not need to remove the door.


    And One more .......>>> ??? Quantity of paint - will 1 litre of each QD satin and undercoat be enough for one door? <<<

    Thanks for all your help.
     
  8. Robbie uk

    Robbie uk

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    With one litre, you will use about an inch of the top :) But you cant really get smaller quantities. But plenty for recoating.
     
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  9. DaveHerns

    DaveHerns

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    I even paint the letter box opening to keep moisture out.
     
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  11. Chri5

    Chri5

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    750ml can will do 2 doors, two coats.
     
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  12. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    Sorry for the delay in coming back on this front door paint query.
    Yes I will paint/ seal the top and bottom, see earlier photo, it is easy to get to both edges.

    The paint itself? Earlier I asked ......

    Chri5 responded .............
    Your photo of the blue door in Weathershield QD (quick dry water based?) does look quite shiny, not very satin.
    Is it an easy paint to use? I have heard that some of these QD's are difficult to apply, talk of 'picture framing' etc - is that the cut in lines showing through on panel areas?

    Is Dulux Weathershield the paint to go for? I would be happy to go to another brand if it's good. Even a solvent based paint if it is better/easier to use. It is on an exterior door, satin of course - not high gloss.

    All feedback appreciated
    Thanks
     
    Last edited: 2 Dec 2016
  13. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    Hi All.
    I posted the above regarding weathershield - or an alternative a week ago.
    Chri5 - would appreciate a response on the points I raised if possible, thanks

    .... from last Saturday ...........

    Chri5 responded .............
    Your photo of the blue door in Weathershield QD (quick dry water based?) does look quite shiny, not very satin.
    Is it an easy paint to use? I have heard that some of these QD's are difficult to apply, talk of 'picture framing' etc - is that the cut in lines showing through on panel areas?

    Is Dulux Weathershield the paint to go for? I would be happy to go to another brand if it's good. Even a solvent based paint if it is better/easier to use. It is on an exterior door, satin of course - not high gloss.
    All feedback appreciated
    Thanks
     
  14. Pigeon85

    Pigeon85

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    Never used the weather shield, when it comes to exterior water based, I swear by sadolin superdec.
     
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  15. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    Thanks. I didn't know that Sadolin did solid colour exterior paint. My knowledge of them is just for wood-coloured exterior varnishes / treatments.
    Can I get the similar colour range that Dulux etc do? I want the door to be grey or blue, solid colour not translucent.
     
  16. Pigeon85

    Pigeon85

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  17. Chri5

    Chri5

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    IMG_1488.JPG IMG_1493.JPG IMG_2038.JPG IMG_2039.JPG

    Still not moved this on?

    Superdec is a decent product, i used 20 litres on my man shed thing, bare wood and paint.

    I wouldn't be using it as a finish on a front door.


    Anyway back on topic- water base satin is a quick dry solution for front doors, saves having to keep door open due to oil being sticky, saves running a dab of vasaline on jams etc.

    The thing about satin is it will look different in different light. South facing door will have a different (lighter) look than the same paint on a North facing door.

    If needed with quick dry satin you can either add 5% water or wet down the job (which is just running a clean water film prior to painting that area.

    Your door, your chocie. BTW the door you said was blue is grey.

    See the last two pictures, which show how much light and angle (plus iphone camera) change the light / depth of colour.
     
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