Painting interior uPVC

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Hi,

I want to clad a scruffy bedroom ceiling using "uPVC hollow board for soffit and interior cladding". I'm using this because it's lightweight and cheaper than wood paneling.

It's the usual white colour, but I want to paint it (probably a cream colour), so it looks more like wood cladding and less like a bathroom ceiling.

I've seen lots of posts on this forum about painting old uPVC, but nothing that relates to (1) interior projects that are out of the sun and (2) brand new uPVC.

(Also, I don't know if this makes a different to what will and will not bond, but the uPVC I've chosen is not designed to be used as external cladding, where it will be exposed to the sun.)

Can I simply slap on some emulsion? Do I need primer? Should I sand it first?... Any advice will be gratefully received.

Many thanks!
 
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I dread to think what will happen in a fire.
 
the burning plastic melts and drips on the occupants, causing horrible burns, and also on the contents of the room, spreading the fire.
 
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Check Bedec Multi surface paint. Alternatively you can go down the route of a high adhesion primer and then put what you like on top of it.
 
Yep...Following the advice I've received, I've decided to abandon the uPVC idea and go for wood cladding instead. Does anyone know if it's possible to get the kind of tongue & groove timber cladding they sell at B&Q and Wickes that is 95mm wide, but in wider 'planks' of 150mm-ish?
Thank you
 
You might be able to find something larger at a proper timber merchant.

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/product/timber/timber-cladding/c/1501001/

In the above link the standard v grove is only 100mm but if you were interested in shiplap they do that up to 144mm but the timber becomes much thicker and will cost and weigh more.

One big advantage of using a timber merchant is that you might be able to specify timber that will span the length of the whole room. If you find a timber merchant that machines wood you can ask them to machine the timber to your specification.

Another alternative would be to use 6 or 9mm MDF and use a router to create the v grove but given that a standard board is only 2440 by 1220 you will have problems where the boards meet.

The cheaper option would be to pay a plasterer or to put up new taper edge plasterboard and tape/n/fill yourself. Just make sure that you drill the boards in to the joists above.
 

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