Years ago I sprayed my first car with with a dead cheap HVLP spray unit - it was fantastic - first go it looked like a pro job. I reckon you could do the same with your doors in the garden (bit cold atm though). Read up a bit on them.
Hi steve
I would be tempted to recommend HVLP, you can hire turbine units. HVLP has less bounce back than conventional compressor based spraying. The oft touted stats are that HVLP results in 70% of paint on the surface (30% wasted airbourne "dust") this compares favourably to 70% bounce back with conventional.
I only have practical experience of using Acid-Cat (aka 2K), it is a two part paint that uses isocyanates as a catalyst. Unfortunately isocyanates when atomised are potentially very toxic and have been known to trigger asthma in (some) people using them that had not previously shown any signs of asthma. In the USA (I believe) you are allowed to use passive charcol face masks. In the Uk you are supposed to use a clean air supply.
I must admit that when spraying outdoors, with a fag in my mouth, I just hold my breath. Other times I wear a mask. but i am spectacularly stoopid and would not recommend that anyone else puts their lungs at risk.
The big advantage of acid-cat is drying time, in the summer I can apply 3 coats, with sanding, in one day (both sides sometimes). Touch dry is 15-20 minutes. AFAIK it is one of the hardest wearing paint finishes (once cured).
Companies such as Morrells will colour match and match the sheen level for you if you take a sample. You re looking at over £50 ish per 5L inc VAT and catalyst plus thiiners on top.
You can apply the AC paint in very low temperatures, in some respects when using a turbine based HVLP the cold helps the paint to settle (turbines produce a lot of hot air which can result in dry spray on hot days). I have been spraying outdoors for the last two weeks (I don't have a proper spray booth), the temperature drop does slow the catalyst from working quite so fast but you can hire an infra-red heater to speed things up, at a push a warm air dryer will help.
At some point though, if you are spraying on site, you will need to bring the doors back inside to harden, they will still be releasing solvents and stink. In small rooms with no airflow the fumes can be enough to make your eyes water, opening a window slightly will stop the watering eyes but you will still have the smell for a couple of days.
You wouldn't be able to take the doors/drawer fronts outside at this time of the year and handpaint WB finishes. Actually you probably could but you wouldn't be able to leave them outside for any length of time
If you are more sensible than me you might consider Morrells range of water-based finishes. These are gaining popularity, largely because of H&SE issues. I don't have any experience of using them personally but I have heard good tings about them. Unfortunately I know little about curing times, the Morrells rep can advise you further. In the event that you opt for the WB spray paint, check to find out what needle size you need for the gun (most hire units will be 4 or 5 stage turbines, with the latter being better at atomising the thicker WB finishes, WB paints are thicker than AC and will need a "fatter" needle) It might be the case that they recommend an airless sprayer for WB finishes, again you can hire them.
Airless tends to require much faster gun movement. Again I have little experience of it but I know that in the USA it is considered to be the daddy
You should find AC quite forgiving and easy to work with (assuming that you have a lowish sheen finish). another popular paint is cellulose, once the darling of the car industry, again I have no experience of working with it.
Much of the advice above is based upon certain assumptions
1. the doors don't have butt hinges, hence you will need to remove them to paint them anyway.
2. the client actually wants a spray finish. Many clients with traditional shaker style doors actually prefer a hand painted finish.
3. the client wants them done as quickly as possible
If you decide that you don't have the space/inclination to spray yourself here is a firm that sprays off site in east london (I have never used them).
With regard to hand painting, as DCDEC suggests, WB eggshell might be the best finish to go for. The Little Greene paints are highly recommended. Being WB, on site smells will be acceptable. You will be able to partially paint the doors whilst hanging but as you are doing bothsides you will need to remove them at somepoint.
WB eggshell will be less durable than OB but if clients are careful it should suffice. Prepainting preparation will depend upon the current finish.
Apologies, the above is a bit of a ramble, I am running late for work.
Please feel free to ask for more specific advice once you decide which finish you will go for.
cheers
