Painting Varnished Bannister

[bolo 2]

Want to white paint all varnished woodwork in our hall both upstairs and down including the bannister and handrail without sanding. Only want suggestions how I could do this rather than reasons why I shouldn’t. Thank you.

 

[Wayners]

Your going to have to clean it as will have skin oils and polish.
That black grime I often see on handrail will come off with meths or a good cirrus cleaner from supermarket. Depends what cleaners you have to hand and how bad it is, but get it clean.
Wire wool will smooth off any rough varnish in areas if you feel it needs a denib.
Zinsser BIN. Don't worry about opacity.
Acrylic primer undercoat 2 coats.
Top of whatever paint you want to use. Waterbased alkyd resists hand skin oils vs acrylic paints on hand rails. Crown fastflow is an alkyd as one example.

 

[opps]

Do you mean that you don't want people to explain why you should sand the old varnish prior to painting it?

I have seen varnished woodwork that has had BIN applied without any prep, or rather it would be more precise to say that, weeks later, I have seen the original varnish...

 

[Wayners]

Yeah. Really needs a key with 320 grade or wire wool but if people don't want to then that's the risk.

 

[bolo 2]

Your going to have to clean it as will have skin oils and polish.
That black grime I often see on handrail will come off with meths or a good cirrus cleaner from supermarket. Depends what cleaners you have to hand and how bad it is, but get it clean.
Wire wool will smooth off any rough varnish in areas if you feel it needs a denib.
Zinsser BIN. Don't worry about opacity.
Acrylic primer undercoat 2 coats.
Top of whatever paint you want to use. Waterbased alkyd resists hand skin oils vs acrylic paints on hand rails. Crown fastflow is an alkyd as one example.

Thank you for that Warners, I’ve just found out that my wife’s friend’s partner did almost exactly what you have outlined apart from the finishing coat. Will have a go once I’ve saved up for the Zinsser!

 

[opps]

Thank you for that Warners, I’ve just found out that my wife’s friend’s partner did almost exactly what you have outlined apart from the finishing coat. Will have a go once I’ve saved up for the Zinsser!

Every bit as good as BIN, but British and less expensive- Smith and Rodgers Blockade.

Blockade — Smith & Rodger - Paints & Shellacs since 1877

Blockade is an industry leading pure shellac for ultimate performace on plaster, wood and metal.

www.smithandrodger.co.uk

Both are shellac based paints. The manufacturers recommend that you use meths to clean your brushes- don't- household ammonia does a much better job. The ammonia is alkali. You dip the brush in the ammonia and within minutes it starts to break down the paint. You can then wash the brush clean in a sink or basin. No residue will be left behind.

I decant a bit in to an old glass jar with a lid. It will last for ages in the jar. If you leave the jar for long enough, the white pigment will drop to the bottom and leave the clear ammonia above. Contrast that with meths, each time you dip the brush in, the meths is simply thinning the paint, dip the paint in a second time, there is more dilute paint in it.

Working with shellac based paints at this time of the year is more forgiving than using them during the height of summer. You can however add a bit of isopropyl alcohol to the thin it.

When I first started using BIN, I used rubbish, throw away brushes. Since discovering the household ammonia, I now use decent Purdy brushes with the shellac paints.

Oh.... this is important- if you plan you use a mini roller do not use a foam roller. I made that mistake once. As I was rolling, it almost doubled in length and became super floppy. The short mohair mini rollers are fine.

 

[bolo 2]

Every bit as good as BIN, but British and less expensive- Smith and Rodgers Blockade.

Blockade — Smith & Rodger - Paints & Shellacs since 1877

Blockade is an industry leading pure shellac for ultimate performace on plaster, wood and metal.

www.smithandrodger.co.uk

Both are shellac based paints. The manufacturers recommend that you use meths to clean your brushes- don't- household ammonia does a much better job. The ammonia is alkali. You dip the brush in the ammonia and within minutes it starts to break down the paint. You can then wash the brush clean in a sink or basin. No residue will be left behind.

I decant a bit in to an old glass jar with a lid. It will last for ages in the jar. If you leave the jar for long enough, the white pigment will drop to the bottom and leave the clear ammonia above. Contrast that with meths, each time you dip the brush in, the meths is simply thinning the paint, dip the paint in a second time, there is more dilute paint in it.

Working with shellac based paints at this time of the year is more forgiving than using them during the height of summer. You can however add a bit of isopropyl alcohol to the thin it.

When I first started using BIN, I used rubbish, throw away brushes. Since discovering the household ammonia, I now use decent Purdy brushes with the shellac paints.

Oh.... this is important- if you plan you use a mini roller do not use a foam roller. I made that mistake once. As I was rolling, it almost doubled in length and became super floppy. The short mohair mini rollers are fine.

Thanks for your very comprehensive and interesting reply- im convinced and now have your link saved ready to investigate fully before making the move.

EDIT : For others who may be considering similar tasks, I’ve just found a Blockade Vs Zinsser BIN comparison video on utube but don’t know how to copy a link to reproduce here. Hope the following attempt attempt works