Common problem and the same with sheet materials as some is 8 X 4 and others are 1220mm x 2440mm. I have resorted to building studwork up with 4 or 6mm ply to make it tally with PIR sheets.
Door casings haven't caught up with regularised timber, in that the timber is thin, casing is wide - meaning shoite loads of skim both sides.8x4 is pretty much 1220 x 2440. It's the metric sized bits that are 1200x2400. Yes, the discrepancy between ply and plasterboard is a pain, in flat roofs for example!
Yes, that's the one's... it's been a long week.8x4 is pretty much 1220 x 2440. It's the metric sized bits that are 1200x2400. Yes, the discrepancy between ply and plasterboard is a pain, in flat roofs for example!
Thanks woody, I was going to use insulated plasterboard to avoid the cold bridge, or one wall will have 25mm PIR with ply over for supporting stuff on the wall better. I can use a vapour control sheet between ply and PIR, but the insulated board will be the VC, and so any gap behind wouldn't be fully on the warm side.Stud walls were traditionally built with roughsawn timber, and these were the actual sizes.
Nowadays timber is generally regularised or CLS, which is smaller.
If you can't find rough sawn, get some hardboard or suchlike and cut some strips to line the studs.
If you are boarding on both sides of the frame, you could keep the room side flush, and have the gap on the external side and just board across and it will be OK.
However it's always best to line the inner face of a frame wall with insulation to avoid cold bridging of the timber studs.
I found out about this when erecting a flat roofed pergola in the garden. Took care in spacing the roof cross struts / joists nicely and then wondered why the OSB roof had overhangs . Now I know8x4 is pretty much 1220 x 2440. It's the metric sized bits that are 1200x2400. Yes, the discrepancy between ply and plasterboard is a pain, in flat roofs for example!
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