Plaster falling off... Best way to repair...

[darrellfep]

Hi,

I'm not great at DIY and this job seems to be getting bigger than I initially expected.

Looking to redecorate a bedroom for the arrival of a little one. I was just expecting to scrape off the old wallpaper and get a plasterer to give it a skim and paint over, job done.

However when I've got the old wallpaper off the current plaster feels like it is coming away from the wall. I've then taken the skirts off (very old skirts, definitely had to be replaced) and the plaster has started to fall off the brick wall. (photo 1).

I guess I need to get off the rest of the plaster off the wall and then can I put plasterboards up and get a plasterer to skim on the plasterboards. is this the best way?

I'm concerned there is a door so there is only 2.5cm from the brickwork to the opening of the door. Will I be able to get plasterboards onto the brickwork and a skim in 2.5cm?

The next area of concern is the ceiling. How far up the wall do I keep taking the plaster off (where do I stop?). As the walls curve into the ceiling.

Thanks,

D

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Looks like your plaster is failing.
It would be best to contact a plasterer to take an on-site look to see where you can stop removing plaster. But I suspect the lot may need to come off.
With regards to plasterboard (PBs) up to the door, ot would be possible if the wall is flat and even throughout that line.
You could dot/dab PBs that are 9.5mm, which with the minimum amount of adhesive would still allow a couple of skim coats.

 

[vinn]

The original plaster that you are pulling off never bonded to the brickwork - it was improperly applied.
For a number of reasons, stay away from dot and dab plasterboarding.
Once the wall are clean & bare have them plastered and skimmed but be certain all suction is taken up by the plasterer. The wall(s) can even be prepped with 1:1 PVA & water.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

For a number of reasons, stay away from dot and dab plasterboarding.

Please elaborate!
I will admit, that basecoat render and scim would be may personal choice, but I would not steer anyone away from well installed D"n"D system.

 

[vinn]

1. there's no room in the pic.
2. read my posted reply 25 june 2016 ref possible knock-on effects of D&D - elec. plates, outlets skirtings etc.
3. Many sites have gone back to solid plastering because of possible health issues (slime mould & smoke from fire)
4. Personally, I've never stripped down D&D and found it to have been applied according to best practice.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

1)If there is 25mm to door casing, there is enough
2) A link would be nice
3) If the standards are followed, that would not be an issue
4) You cannot tar everyone with the same brush, there is enough information out there, for even a DIYer, to get the correct information, on the recommend methods of application

 

[vinn]

1) Do you visualise a smear of p/b adhesive - how secure would that be?
A min adhesive depth of 10mm to 20mm + p/b & skim
could possibly bring the surface proud of the casing. A couple of tipped proud bricks and you've lost all leeway unless you start chipping back the brickwork.
What plasterer wants to fiddle about like that? The idea is to get in & get out.

3)But they are not, and it is. I watched a large gang of D&D'ers throwing it on for a price in an expensive block of flats - it was plumb and in plane. Neither the foreman, the super or BCO could care less about best practice.

4) I post what I've experienced.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

1)25mm -(9.5mm PB+3mm Skim)=12.5mm for dabs. It i doable, providing the surface is flat and even, as per my first reply.
2) To quote Diane Ross "I'm still waiting" (for link)
3) Like I said, you cannot tar all with same brush. If the application is performed as per white book. Then you should have no issue. Regrettably I concede that is not always true and not always true of a number of trades with regards to their standards and guides
4) I do not doubt that!