Plaster over artex?

[stevethespreader]

You won't get a problem but it's not economic as a model.

My car's broken down - get a new car.

My ceiling needs fixing - get a new ceiling.

i agree i wouldent overboard perfectly good ceilings that can be skimmed with the right prep
i always look at anything thats covered in artex and decide if im going to skim or overboard and judge it accordingly i wouldent go into every job that involves artex with the prefixed idea that im going to overboard no matter what

 

[noseall]

If folks are thinking of doing any electrical work within the floor space, i will, without hesitation, advise to remove the ceiling.

Eh? You simply remove a floorboard above or get in the loft if it is upstairs.

Specifically downlights and if the ceiling were in need of a re-skim, obviously.

There are many occasions where it makes economical sense to remove a ceiling as opposed to say lifting laminate, shifting wardrobes or bathroom fittings etc.

As for downlights - always lose the ceiling.

 

[joe-90]

As for downlights - always lose the ceiling.

Eh? What you do is take up a board in the room above, notch or drill the joist, cut your holes with a holesaw and feed your cable up to the joist you've just notched. Connect your lights, connect to your power and put the board back down.

I what way would pulling the ceiling down help?

 

[Micilin]

Yes , it is far superior to PVA.


Also with the bondit/pva, if it is a large area you save time on the plastering because you don't have to keep stopping to put fresh pva on ahead of you if it is drying.

But I dare say in the case you mention, the PVA on the ceiling was dry?

I have seen a lot of people use PVA like that, as if it were magic.

They would not wait for any other glue to dry before sticking anything else together,but expect one coat of pva to do it.

Is it now?

Oh really?

[/b]

Was waiting for you peaps , just dangling a little morsel for you to bite on.

Yes, the above is entirely in keeping with my previous posts.

PVA properly applied in the right context is fine.

Bondit is better, especially for ceilings.

Both are bonding agents for overskimming, which is a perfectly good application for them .

But everything has to be done properly.

 

[Micilin]

You won't get a problem but it's not economic as a model.

My car's broken down - get a new car.

My ceiling needs fixing - get a new ceiling.

i agree i wouldent overboard perfectly good ceilings that can be skimmed with the right prep
i always look at anything thats covered in artex and decide if im going to skim or overboard and judge it accordingly i wouldent go into every job that involves artex with the prefixed idea that im going to overboard no matter what

Agree with both of you.

 

[ChedderAndChive]

Thanks for the replies I have decided to skim. Ive plasterd walls but never a ceiling but im going to have a crack at it (after a bit of practicing).

 

[Micilin]

Thanks for the replies I have decided to skim. Ive plasterd walls but never a ceiling but im going to have a crack at it (after a bit of practicing).

If new to doing a ceiling, wear some specs so you don't get a splash in the eye.

Good luck with it

 

[ChedderAndChive]

Thanks good tip.

 

[peaps]

Yes , it is far superior to PVA.


Also with the bondit/pva, if it is a large area you save time on the plastering because you don't have to keep stopping to put fresh pva on ahead of you if it is drying.

But I dare say in the case you mention, the PVA on the ceiling was dry?

I have seen a lot of people use PVA like that, as if it were magic.

They would not wait for any other glue to dry before sticking anything else together,but expect one coat of pva to do it.

Is it now?

Oh really?

[/b]

Was waiting for you peaps , just dangling a little morsel for you to bite on.

Yes, the above is entirely in keeping with my previous posts.

PVA properly applied in the right context is fine.

Bondit is better, especially for ceilings.

Both are bonding agents for overskimming, which is a perfectly good application for them .

But everything has to be done properly.

Well since BG only recomend their bond products and not PVA....

Maybe you could get back to answering the other post before you move on. You need a good memory in this game.

So we can see that many "plasterers" who use PVA don't mix or apply it correctly, Mmmm wonder if it's been mentioned? Like I've said, PVA is not the right product for gypsum plasters and too much room for error when using it couple with the fact people don't use it right adds upto desaster.

You keep clinging onto it though, you know the bit you where you claim I've said PVA dosnt work. You are good at that.

Next.

 

[Micilin]

Well since BG only recomend their bond products and not PVA....

Maybe you could get back to answering the other post before you move on. You need a good memory in this game.

So we can see that many "plasterers" who use PVA don't mix or apply it correctly, Mmmm wonder if it's been mentioned? Like I've said, PVA is not the right product for gypsum plasters and too much room for error when using it couple with the fact people don't use it right adds upto desaster.

You keep clinging onto it though, you know the bit you where you claim I've said PVA dosnt work. You are good at that.

Next.

Peaps, I left the other thread alone as it was going nowhere, other posters were sick of it as we were both going over old ground .

I will get back to it, however, as a favour to you. And how ironic - you say I am the one 'clinging' on...........

Also , while you are in the mood for tying up loose ends, you might like to revisit the float/trowel one - I thought you'd particularly interested in the point that a company in your region company uses the term 'trowel', as do a lot of other plasterers in Derbyshire. You must have missed that one , as one so keen to deal with points before you 'move on'

Perhaps we can leave this thread to posts more relevant to the OP.

 

[peaps]

Well since BG only recomend their bond products and not PVA....

Maybe you could get back to answering the other post before you move on. You need a good memory in this game.

So we can see that many "plasterers" who use PVA don't mix or apply it correctly, Mmmm wonder if it's been mentioned? Like I've said, PVA is not the right product for gypsum plasters and too much room for error when using it couple with the fact people don't use it right adds upto desaster.

You keep clinging onto it though, you know the bit you where you claim I've said PVA dosnt work. You are good at that.

Next.

Peaps, I left the other thread alone as it was going nowhere, other posters were sick of it as we were both going over old ground .

I will get back to it, however, as a favour to you. And how ironic - you say I am the one 'clinging' on...........

Also , while you are in the mood for tying up loose ends, you might like to revisit the float/trowel one - I thought you'd particularly interested in the point that a company in your region company uses the term 'trowel', as do a lot of other plasterers in Derbyshire. You must have missed that one , as one so keen to deal with points before you 'move on'

Perhaps we can leave this thread to posts more relevant to the OP.

I don't think you are able to understand the issue. For a start I'm a Yorkshireman. It matters not who calls a float what. The origins (meaning) has changed and I say it's down to the Yanks. It's hardly something we can say is fact, it's an opinion and a valid ons based on my experience living and working in GA.


The last post didn't go anywhere because even though you supported my argument by pointing out BG don't recomend PVA you still cling to the notion it's ok to use then to support other arguments I've read you use company recomendations as gospil!!!. Can't have it both ways

Next

 

[noseall]

As for downlights - always lose the ceiling.

Eh? What you do is take up a board in the room above, notch or drill the joist, cut your holes with a holesaw and feed your cable up to the joist you've just notched. Connect your lights, connect to your power and put the board back down.

I what way would pulling the ceiling down help?

A bank of say 8 downlights (not excessive in a kitchen or decent size room) would require boards taken up all over the room above. This is often not practical.

 

[joe-90]

No it doesn't - just one down the middle will do. Are you on drugs?

And in what way does replacing the ceiling help? You have to put it up then drill holes in it.

 

[noseall]

And in what way does replacing the ceiling help? You have to put it up then drill holes in it.

Typically we would fetch the ceiling down.

The sparky would then fit his cables between joists (obviously) then mark off where the joists are and where his cables are positioned, on a diagram.

We would then tack and skim the ceiling with his cables coiled up inside.

He then comes along and drills out the downlight holes and fishes the wires etc.

You should never, ever drill holes first then plaster.

We had to repair a l & p ceiling that some idiot tried to fit downlights into with the methods that you state Joey and made a right mess. The ceiling had to come down.

If you think that you could fix a series of downlights into a floor space with solid bridging etc, by lifting one board then good luck to ya.

 

[joe-90]

You obviously aint no sparky - done it loads of times. It's a doddle. Pulling a ceiling down then putting it back up and drilling holes? Mental.