Plasterboarding brick walls

[cdbe]

Ditch the whole plastering idea. uPVC cladding on battens is what you need.

 

[aveatry]

I previously had used the throwaway cans for years and then brought a proper foam gun and wished I had brought one years ago easy to control the flow - not by gently squeezing but its the nose that adjusts the flow

 

[JohnW2]

Ditch the whole plastering idea. uPVC cladding on battens is what you need.

Hmmm. It may be what you think I 'need', but it's certainly not what I want!

 

[simplesteve]

To reply to the ' which for the uneven wall ' question - it's dot dab for that.
Battens will just make the new wall parallel to the old wall, so still uneven. ( unless you spend ages putting in a load of joiners shims)
TBH, as a tiler, I tend to do my plaster plate dot-dabbing with rapid setting tile adhesive. Slap the board onto the wall with the aforementioned 1800 level, quick coat of 1:3 SBR, then start tiling. ( but not for full height porcelain tiling)

 

[JohnW2]

To reply to the ' which for the uneven wall ' question - it's dot dab for that.

Thanks. That's what I assumed you were implying, but I thought I ought to check!

 

[robinbanks]

Will this be a heated space? Are the single skins exposed to weather? If either of these are the case I'd put a stud wall inboard of the brick, insulate the gap and board the stud wall

Competing products exist that you may prefer to give a go of; take a look at fermacell for ease of finishing to a good standard and for durability, sound deadening etc

I too would batten for aforementioned reasons of adhering to 130 year old paint. An sds drill, 7mm (if the bricks are soft) or 8mm (hard) and concrete screws; zap the drill straight through the batten and the brick to a tape-marked depth 10mm longer than your conc screw, blow the hole clear of dust using an inserted straw, bit of earth sleeve etc (shut your eyes) then impact driver a conc screw in. You don't need many, maybe 5 per batten, quick process once you have the top and bottom in place

If using plasterboard, taper edge boards vertically means you don't have any non taper edges to finish (tapered boards are only thus on the long edges). Re tape and fill, British Gypsum have a good tutorial video for people who are already tool competent, at

 

[GhostIntMachine]

As nobody has mentioned them I'll throw in another couple of ideas: metal stud or wall-fixed resillient bars. MF stud is much faster and easier to install than timber studding - basically you fix a track to the floor, another to the ceiling in line with it, cut the metal studs with a pair of tin snips and slide it in (plumbed up), finally screw the PB onto it. Resilient bar onto wall brackets is another approach if you don't eant to lose so much depth. With either system the air trapped between the walls and the boards acts as insulation. Availsble from builders merchants. Details: see British Gypsum

 

[JohnW2]

Will this be a heated space? Are the single skins exposed to weather? If either of these are the case I'd put a stud wall inboard of the brick, insulate the gap and board the stud wall

Yes, it is (will be) a heated space. Only a small part of one of the walls is 'exposed to weather', and I've dealt with that essentially as you describe - constructing what is essentially an insulated stud wall inboard of the brick. The room is already sufficiently small that to put stud walls all round would not be very desirable (nor, I believe, necessary), but what I have done with the couple of bits of other walls that are 'cold' on the other side (but not exposed to weather) is to put (25mm) insulation between the battens. The other side of those 'cold' walls are within a large 'outside cupboard', and that other side (within the 'cupboard') will eventually have substantial insulation added (within the 'cupboard').

I too would batten for aforementioned reasons of adhering to 130 year old paint.

Yes, that was the deciding issue for me. Whenever I touched one of the walls, bits of (130 year-old!) paint (if not also some brick dust!) fell off, so I went totally off the idea of hoping that plaster (and/or any other form of foam/adhesive) would stick to the walls very satisfactorily!

If using plasterboard, taper edge boards vertically means you don't have any non taper edges to finish (tapered boards are only thus on the long edges).

That's exactly what I've now done.

Thanks to you and everyone else for your advice and support.

Kind Regards, John