Plastering around low v halogen spots.

[Northbeach]

Have completed the 'embedding ceremony' of low voltage halogen spot lights in both the kitchen and living room - never as easy as is made out.
The electrics were by far the easiest portion of this task!
Couldn't upheave the floorboards from above (they have been varnished and are used bare in the room above), so had to channel out the route for the cabling instead.
The plaster (and wooden slats above that)I drilled the large holes for the lighting also fragmented in parts which had to be patched (I used wood paste for the slats).
I used two in one plaster to patch up in the short term but I am looking to reskim the whole ceiling (not I but a pro!).

First of all the ceiling has a particular dodgy looking artex effect all over it which has chipped and flaked in certain area's. Can this be merely skimmed over and then repainted?

Secondly, when the skimming takes place will I have to take the lighting out or can I hitch them down a few mm and masking tape them up?

They look good but it's a hell of a task!

Many thanks.

 

[noseall]

first, draw an accurate diagram of where your spots are, then un-clip them and push the wire into the ceiling space. next, underboard the whole ceiling with new plasterboards, and skim (incidently, it will be easy to locate your joists, as you have no carpet on floor above). re drill spots using appropriate hole cutter, paint ceiling, re-fix spots.

 

[Northbeach]

Blimey - cheers! Wasn't expecting such a thorough job.
Use standard plasterboard (onto the existing ceiling plaster/artex?)? Would I tack these onto the ceiling or is there a bonding plaster I could use? I guess having the plasterboard up there will make the skimming job a little easier (if I decide to take the job on myself)?
Little worried the ceiling may be lowered by a couple of inches.
Similar situation in the kitchen - knocked a wall (non retaining!) down before the new kitchen was installed but you can see the old wall line on the ceiling.

Many thanks for your help.

 

[Northbeach]

... underboard the whole ceiling with new plasterboards, and skim (incidently, it will be easy to locate your joists, as you have no carpet on floor above). re drill spots using appropriate hole cutter, paint ceiling, re-fix spots.

Do I need to locate the joists so to nail/tack/drywall screw the plaster boards to the ceiling? Is there a recommended size for plaster boards being placed here - I ask because I'm worried the weight won't hold up.

This is quite possibly a very good idea you have suggested...looks increasingly unlikely we will get a plasterer in to skim just two ceilings.
Is there any reason why I couldn't just skim over the existing patchy artex or will this route ensure I have a clean straight ceiling?

One mor thing...the artex ceiling extends about two feet down the wall where it meets a picture rail. I wouldn't wish to plasterboard down the wall as I will lose the definition on said rail - just skim this?

Thanks.

 

[noseall]

you will be ok using the thinner 3/8" or 9.5mm boards, as for size, use 1200x2400mm plasterboards if your joists are 400mm (16") centres, or use 900x1800mm boards if your joists are 450mm (18") centres. don't try fixing them on your own. always fix ceiling boards with mechanical fixings i.e. drywall screws or galv large head nails, preferably 50mm plus. over skim the remaining wall area down to picture rail, preferably after the ceiling has gone off, as wet angles are a nightmare for the uninitiated!

 

[Northbeach]

The more I think about it the more I'm warming to this idea.

over skim the remaining wall area down to picture rail, preferably after the ceiling has gone off, as wet angles are a nightmare for the uninitiated!

Gone off as in after I have skimmed over the plasterboard?
I have had to box in a pipe (as mentioned on the other post) and have used plasterboard as suggested (not conti!) - have used drywall screws/mesh tape for the joints/and corner metal (forget the term).
I will practice my skimming on this - 3mm good coverage?

Cheers for the help.

 

[noseall]

when us old salts refer to "gone off" we mean set or hardened. if your boxing in has a 90deg angle then i guess you will be using a board bead. this will dictate your skim thickness. if you try and fix plasterboard with nails to inadequate timbers, say 30mmx30mm, they can flex or "bounce" making a right pigs ear of your plasterboard!

 

[Northbeach]

Thanks - yes must be board bead, the metal strip full of holes which you cut to fit. Did notice the corner of this bead/strip was quite prominent the rest slightly indented. I would still need to lightly cover the corner though? Not sure if the emulsion (when i get round to painting this post skim) will adhere to the metal?

...on the painting front - how long, given the average 3mm skim (is that correct?) would I need to let the finishing plaster dry before painting - I understand that full on plaster jobs can take weeks to dry?

 

[noseall]

mix skim ,put it on, goes dark pink, then starts to dry out and go pale pink. when it has gone completely pale, paint it.

 

[Northbeach]

Wonderful - many thanks for all this Noseall. Quite possibly saved me some stress and money!
I'll let you know how I got on.

Regards.

 

[Northbeach]

...as for size, use 1200x2400mm plasterboards if your joists are 400mm (16") centres, or use 900x1800mm boards if your joists are 450mm (18") centres

Joists as in the beams above/below the ceiling/floor?
Looks like they are 16" between each joists then. As I'm going to have to cut them to size anyway, is there any reason for using such a large plasterboard (looking at the size I'll more than likely have to get them delivered)? Hang on (pun not intended) - a shorter distance between the joists will mean more grip to the ceiling - answered my own question right ?
Still, might have to go for the shorter board just to fit them in the back of my car.

 

[noseall]

the two plasterboard sizes correspond with joist centres, to give minimum wastage, but i agree, 900x1800mm are a lot easier to handle. there is a 2400x 900mm size wich might be ideal.

 

[Northbeach]

^ Cheers, Yeah I suppose it would save on costs and wastage.

Well the skimming (the boxing in) worked better than I thought. Took a while mind as I was careful enough on my first attempt.
Wasn't entirely sure whether I shoud have added to the mesh tape to the board bead on the corner? I did anyway but felt this was unecessary?

The result was quite smooth though a couple of minro imperfections (float marks).
I was wondering if it is important to get hold of the external/internal 90 degree floats for the corners and finger edgers for the edges?

I also read that you should start from the bottom working up then move back down to the bottom but the geography of this corner piece (boxing in a pipe above kitchen units) meant this wasn't entirely possible.

But you've given me the confidence to attack the living room ceiling (with the plasterboards and skim) now - cheers!

Now...where do you get hold of milk crates...and what on earth is a foot lever for hitching the boards to the ceiling...

 

[Northbeach]

Well, I'll soon be attempting this task (sourced a local supplier who has the correct plasterboard and will deliver for free!).
Forgot to ask - I have dry wall screws (for when I boxed in a small plasterboard 'wall') but was wondering what size screw I'd need for the ceiling (don't want it falling on the in-laws!).

Cheers.

 

[noseall]

not even the mother-in-law i guess if your underboarding then 50-60mm should be plenty long enough.