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Plastic central heating pipe work

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by rockhopper69, 13 Jul 2020.

  1. rockhopper69

    rockhopper69

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    Hi Guys
    I’m after abit of advice , we’re currently renovating a house and just had a quote from a plumber to fit new Combi heating system plus all the house plumbing work , I noticed on the quote from what I can make out he’s quoted for plastic ch pipes , now I’ve heard loads of horror stories regarding plastic and to be honest I always said Ide never go down this route and use copper instead , just wondering what plumbers thoughts are on using plastic , I appreciate its gona make the job a lot easier, quicker and cheaper just abit concerned about the longevity and reliability of it ?
    Im thinking of asking how much extra it would be to go the copper route . Quotes already knocking on for 9 k Though:D
    Cheers
     
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  3. Crezzer

    Crezzer

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    If its chipboard flooring and its all stuck down it will add a hell of a lot, all new builds are plastic now and have been for 10+ years.
     
  4. rockhopper69

    rockhopper69

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    It’s all floor boards . and I will be wanting no pipes on show .
    Cheers
     
  5. oldbutnotdead

    oldbutnotdead

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    9k? How big's the house?
    Plastic pipe isn't necessarily better or worse than copper, the big bonus is it massively reduces the time and skill level required to install a satisfactory heating system (functional not aesthetic).
     
  6. Bodd

    Bodd

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    How big is your house?
     
  7. baldykev

    baldykev

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    If used correctly no un accessible joints any where. All one run of pipe work.
     
  8. Mottie

    Mottie

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    I can’t see how that would work with a heating system. Don’t you have flow and return with branches off of that?
     
  9. oldbutnotdead

    oldbutnotdead

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    Placcie pipe is relatively cheap compared to copper, the fittings are expensive & i don't like them where i can't get at them. Placcie heating system is best manifolded from a central (accessible) point, each pipe run going from manifold to rad valve with no joints. Stud walls (modern build) allow you to drop pipes down the gap and bring them out behind the rad.
     
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  11. Mottie

    Mottie

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    Surely you’d need a couple of 90° joints in the stud wall?
     
  12. denso13

    denso13

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    Not really

    upload_2020-7-14_10-45-34.jpeg
     
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  13. oldbutnotdead

    oldbutnotdead

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    Nope. For 15mm you might need cold formers, smaller gauge not. And beaten to that image by @denso13 :)
     
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  14. motorbiking

    motorbiking

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    When I bought my house 20 years ago, I replumbed most of it myself. Never a single leak in 15 years. As part of an extension my wife commissioned the plumber ripped most of it out and replaced with poly. I was not particularly happy, but worked on the basis better to let him do it the way he wants as a lot of plumbers seems to have forgotten how to solder. I've had my downstairs ceiling repainted 3 times and re-plastered twice with all the problems. Poly seems to allow all sorts of poor workmanship to be hidden (stressed pipes, missing internal rings, etc) and they hold for about 18 months before they leak. Gradually replacing it back with copper.. big ball ache and 5k wasted.

    No doubt this was more down to the idiot who did the work than the system. But I regret not specifying copper.
     
  15. rockhopper69

    rockhopper69

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    It’s a 4 bed house , the plumber is also fitting a downstairs loo with stand in shower ,kitchen area and upstairs bathroom etc with all the plumbing .
    I’m really concerned about the use of plastic though ,All the flooring will be up because it’s getting rewired , I’ve a feeling there will be joints everywhere under the floor . I won’t be around either due to work , I think I may have to speak with him ,I quite like the idea of a central accessible manifold and complete runs from that to rads . My only issue is we’re to fit that .
    Cheers
     
  16. rockhopper69

    rockhopper69

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    The only thing I’m fancying with plastic is the lack of noise from creeping pipes etc :D
    Me and my father fitted 15 mm copper central heating pipes in my current house we notched the joists fitted padding under the pipes , clipped them up properly but it still creeks when warming up haha typical. Does her head in I’m sort of used to it now though because the house I grew up in had Micro bore copper with a manifold and they even creeped haha .
    Would a central heating system with pipes say for instance 8 to 10 mm with manifold be on par with 15 mm throughout ?
    Thanks again .
     
  17. oldbutnotdead

    oldbutnotdead

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    You can reduce (or eliminate) creaking in copper by thinking about expansion. Those plastic clips are way too rigid, support the pipe with baby noggins or other timber strips, where you have elbows under boards make sure at least 1 end of the pipe has room to move, long straight runs ditto, have a couple of mil slack in the notches...
    Placcie is thicker than copper so for a given diameter there's less x section area. There are tables for heat carrying capacity at nominal flow velocities, match them with room heatloss & that'll be your answer.
     
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