That was my theory as well BJS, Im intrigued as to how the internal connections of the board are done though........Seems strange that the circuits you would not expect to be on the RCCB are next to it and vise versa with the circuits next to the main switch.
Please can anyone help? Weird tripping problem !!!!
- Thread starter Brightness
- Start date
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BJS_Spark said:
That makes sense, dunno why I didn't spot it myself, though whoever did it should have re labeled things, if if they cba, just stuck it elsewhere (afaik the in order thing is only a requirement, and I'd say having stuff properly labelled would take preference to it)
Ermmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm I'm totally lost now 
.
My sparky, bless him, didn't fit the box. He put in extra sockets, wired up new oven, new shower, mended a BT phone point that BT denied existed (even though it was an original BT socket LMAO), put under cupboard lights in the kitchen and a few other bits and pieces.
So, what exactly is the problem with the fuse box and is it going to cost a fortune to put right?
The house is 18 years old (which is probably why the box looks fairly new) but was in a right mess so we've had to gut it. We've got no money left for anything now so please don't give me bad news
.My sparky, bless him, didn't fit the box. He put in extra sockets, wired up new oven, new shower, mended a BT phone point that BT denied existed (even though it was an original BT socket LMAO), put under cupboard lights in the kitchen and a few other bits and pieces.
So, what exactly is the problem with the fuse box and is it going to cost a fortune to put right?
The house is 18 years old (which is probably why the box looks fairly new) but was in a right mess so we've had to gut it. We've got no money left for anything now so please don't give me bad news
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It might not be "wrong" exactly, but it looks like the circuit labels need to be changed. When you want something to do, turn each MCB off (one at a time) and see what stops working. Put a new label over each MCB (I like to use white vinyl tape and a permanent marker; looks neat, and if you ever need to, you can scrape it off and redo). The 5A MCBs are likely to be lights, the 15A an immersion heater, the 32A sockets, the other 32A might be an electric cooker, the 40A either an electric shower or a big electric cooker. The 40A MCB on the right looks to me to be newer than the others.
It will be interesting to see what circuits the RCD (extreme left) controls.
Quite possibly when your electrician fitted the new shower, he added an extra MCB and/or RCD or moved things about and did not update the labelling.
Once the labels are up to date it may be easy to see why on one socket the microwave trips the RCD, and on another it doesn't. RCDs are usually provided to protect showers and/or sockets that can reasonably be expected to supply tools used outside, like a lawn mower or hedge trimmer (or just do all the [downstairs] sockets for simplicity); and/or sockets in a room that is not a bathroom but has a shower in it. when an RCD trips it is often because of damp getting into an appliance like a kettle, washing machine, immersion heater. Sometimes no single appliance has a significant fault, it can be a few that each have very slight leakage that add together. Cookers and freezers usually don't have RCD protection.
The good news is that walking round the house to identify circuits need not cost you anything, you can easily do it yourself. Don't start opening covers or poking at wires.
It will be interesting to see what circuits the RCD (extreme left) controls.
Quite possibly when your electrician fitted the new shower, he added an extra MCB and/or RCD or moved things about and did not update the labelling.
Once the labels are up to date it may be easy to see why on one socket the microwave trips the RCD, and on another it doesn't. RCDs are usually provided to protect showers and/or sockets that can reasonably be expected to supply tools used outside, like a lawn mower or hedge trimmer (or just do all the [downstairs] sockets for simplicity); and/or sockets in a room that is not a bathroom but has a shower in it. when an RCD trips it is often because of damp getting into an appliance like a kettle, washing machine, immersion heater. Sometimes no single appliance has a significant fault, it can be a few that each have very slight leakage that add together. Cookers and freezers usually don't have RCD protection.
The good news is that walking round the house to identify circuits need not cost you anything, you can easily do it yourself. Don't start opening covers or poking at wires.
Thanks. The far left thingie seems to control every socket in the house - except for the one attached to the cooker switch!
Don't worry, I'm quite unlikely and value my life a bit too much to go round and poke things with covers off!!!!
Don't worry, I'm quite unlikely and value my life a bit too much to go round and poke things with covers off!!!!
Brightness said:
Ha Ha! The socket Mr Bright used is on the cooker circuit! So not on the RCD that does the sockets! That explains it! Perfectly reasonably way to do things. Though some of us don't like sockets on cooker controls because it encourages people to drape the kettle flex over the hob and cook it.
(The split-load layout of your CU (split=some circuits on RCD, some not) is not the same as I am used to, maybe Hager has a different arrangement, I think this, plus the labelling, confused some of us without BJS_Spark's sharp eyes.)
Yeah exactly! I have only got about 6" wide worktop between the hob and oven underneath the switch too, so I can't move the microwave over.
Can't have the flex from the microwave going across the back of the hob either or I might get fried!
Will have to save up for a visit from a Sparky and see exactly what's going on with these damned sockets
Can't have the flex from the microwave going across the back of the hob either or I might get fried!
Will have to save up for a visit from a Sparky and see exactly what's going on with these damned sockets
I think the problem is with your microwave, not your sockets. The RCD is doing the right thing and cutting off the current when it detects a faulty appliance being plugged in. This is what you want it to do, especially in a kitchen where you have taps and water.
The cooker circuit is insensitive to a small fault, as cookers are seldom portable or carried outdoors.
The cooker circuit is insensitive to a small fault, as cookers are seldom portable or carried outdoors.
Aahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh so it is the microwave at fault then . Back to square one and a very expensive repair or replacement bill
. Back to square one and a very expensive repair or replacement bill 
The fusebox looks poorly done.
All the breakers are wonkey and not level - a simple thing to get right when you fit one. if this isn't done well, what else isnt?
The actull board also doesn't look like a hagar one, and has had hagar bits stuffed into it.
The RCD is only rated to 40amp - too low in my opinion, although by the sounds of it, it only protects a single MCB. I would be interested to know if the rcd test button still works with the sockets MCB turned off?!? I think it may be wired after the MCB to protect just that circuit (therefore 40amp would be ok). It doesn't look like a split load board to me.
I agree with BJS on the labelling.
Can we have a wider shot of the fusbox? So we can see cables entering it. one with the cover off would be great
All the breakers are wonkey and not level - a simple thing to get right when you fit one. if this isn't done well, what else isnt?
The actull board also doesn't look like a hagar one, and has had hagar bits stuffed into it.
The RCD is only rated to 40amp - too low in my opinion, although by the sounds of it, it only protects a single MCB. I would be interested to know if the rcd test button still works with the sockets MCB turned off?!? I think it may be wired after the MCB to protect just that circuit (therefore 40amp would be ok). It doesn't look like a split load board to me.
I agree with BJS on the labelling.
Can we have a wider shot of the fusbox? So we can see cables entering it. one with the cover off would be great
Look a bit closer lectrician, top left of photo, blue writing HAGER LoL, it is a very old hager board which is why the breakers are Bs 3871 as opposed to BS 60898, I agree a, photo of inside the board would be interesting as it definiteley does not look right from the outside. But do not take the front off the board brightness, unless you feel happy about doing so, it is perfectly safe as long as you don't touch anything inside with the power on to it though.
if you need any more help
post back and im sure we can sort you out
Nick
if you need any more help
post back and im sure we can sort you out
Nick
Errrr no not going to take front of board off . Hubby seems to know where everything is in there and what button is for what (apparently he's had a look).
Was quoted £30 to just look at the microwave so will probably end up buying a new one - unless I can get someone local to sort it cheaper.
Thanks for all your help guys
. Hubby seems to know where everything is in there and what button is for what (apparently he's had a look).Was quoted £30 to just look at the microwave so will probably end up buying a new one - unless I can get someone local to sort it cheaper.
Thanks for all your help guys
No not yet, can't find the paperwork with all the guarantee in it Will ring them on monday whether I have found it or not.
Will ring them on monday whether I have found it or not.DIYnot Local
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