Oh here we go, the pearls of wisedom from the ex-used car saleman now selling tiles!! Mate nobody cares what you think, we're interested in Heating not some crappy tiles.
Polypipe underfloor heating
- Thread starter BWG
- Start date
Oh here we go, the pearls of wisedom from the ex-used car saleman now selling tiles!! Mate nobody cares what you think, we're interested in Heating not some crappy tiles.
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M
MJGas
Yeah Tilemaster can say what they want but Ditra and hardiebacker board are polypipe approved.
thats right, only been doing this for 22 years, what would in i know! (not on here for any other reason than to give advice)
thats interesting, ive never seen that before, have you got a spec written to confirm this? (genuine question)
M
MJGas
Polypipe will only tell you on the phone about the Ditra as its not in the instructions for some reason. Im sure it mentions hardiebacker in their instructions. They also tell you on the phone about not using latex self leveller.
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and yet you speak to any tile adhesive manufacturer in this country and not one (to my knowledge) will say you can tile directly on top of polypipe/similar products. 2 tile adhesive companies weber and tilemaster will specify the boards are levelled with a flexible leveller.
just to add, this is what polypipes twitter account sent to me:
Correctly installed Overlay should be level and secured to provide a solid flat base for tiling directly, the use of a coverboard, decoupling membrane or leveller is suitable however where a low floor height build up is essential this can be omitted. The use of a primer and flexible adhesive and grout suitable for UFH is required to allow for any movement. Polypipe Overlay panels are made from Gypsum fibreboard and are therefore ideal for tiling.
just to add, this is what polypipes twitter account sent to me:
Correctly installed Overlay should be level and secured to provide a solid flat base for tiling directly, the use of a coverboard, decoupling membrane or leveller is suitable however where a low floor height build up is essential this can be omitted. The use of a primer and flexible adhesive and grout suitable for UFH is required to allow for any movement. Polypipe Overlay panels are made from Gypsum fibreboard and are therefore ideal for tiling.
Skool boy physics will tell you what is & what is not a good conductor of heat.
UFH is mainly radiant heat.
I for one would never tile on anything other than concrete & concrete is the best thermal mass for UFH.
Why tile a floor anyway?? It just looks dated in 6-10 years & you can't change it easily like a carpet of laminate. Now, a nice wooden floor looks good for a lifetime!!
UFH is mainly radiant heat.
I for one would never tile on anything other than concrete & concrete is the best thermal mass for UFH.
Why tile a floor anyway?? It just looks dated in 6-10 years & you can't change it easily like a carpet of laminate. Now, a nice wooden floor looks good for a lifetime!!
Think that's an understatement. By my calculations you're sending about 90% of the heat to Australia if you stick these boards on top of the heating pipes.
That last time I studied physics wood wasn't a good conductor of heat at all!
Hi - new to this and in the same dilemma. We have about 80m2 of flooring to tile, screeding was done 5 months ago. I wasn't budgeting for this extra cost - is it really recommended to go for the Ditra mat? I've been quoted £220 as the cheapest price for a 30m2 roll. What sort of adhesive do you need to stick the mat down and if you dont install the mat, is it realistic to assume that cracks will appear and damage the tiles?
Suck it up and buy the Ditra mat.
had a specification written for me by TileMaster on this very subject the other day.......
they recommended that the polypipe boards are primed with primeplus 3-1 then levelled with 5mm levelflex (a flexible self levelling screed) then solid bed fix the tiles using setaflex or ulitmate tile adhesive (if tiles are natural stone, a decoupler (ditra/Dural) is needed)
grout tiles with grout 3000.
they recommended that the polypipe boards are primed with primeplus 3-1 then levelled with 5mm levelflex (a flexible self levelling screed) then solid bed fix the tiles using setaflex or ulitmate tile adhesive (if tiles are natural stone, a decoupler (ditra/Dural) is needed)
grout tiles with grout 3000.
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