poor toilet flush
- Thread starter wez1981
- Start date
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Check the water level inside the cistern , also check how much water is being used during a flush , if it's a flush handle type and only half flushes then I spect a plastic bung from the syphon has popped out
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Is it an old siphonic pan? A photo from the side of the pan would help.
Usually it is a sign that the syphon has failed, easy to enough to replace and it will cost you about £5 plus the cost of a new doughnut washer to go between the pan and cistern.
If you have never had to replace one then this may be helpful;
Replacing a toilet syphon
Fitting a toilet syphon can be a time consuming job, hopefully these instructions will make the job much easier for anyone attempting to have a go themselves. Before replacing the syphon you should inspect the existing one as some syphon's are in two parts and can be split for servicing.
This is the toilet with the lid removed. Ensure you put the toilet lid in a safe place as they are easily broken! If you flush the toilet and occasionally it does not flush the first time this could mean that the syphon needs replacing. Firstly you need to isolate the water going to the toilet, this can be done locally via an isolation valve or by isolating the rising main
If the toilet still flushes give the handle a flush to empty the water out of the cistern. If the syphon is not working at all you need to ladle the water out using a suitable container. To get the last remaining water out of the bottom of the cistern you can use a sponge. Any water from the cistern can be emptied down the toilet pan.
Use either the correct sized spanner or an adjustable spanner and undo the nut that connects to the water inlet valve ( some water will drip out on removal ). The overflow pipe will also need disconnecting (if there is one).
Underneath the toilet there are two wing nuts that hold the cistern to the pan, these need removing. If the nuts will not undo you can saw them off with an hacksaw or even cut them off using an angle grinder.
Undo any fixings that are holding the cistern to the wall, then carefully lift the cistern clear of the toilet pan. Clean any debris from the toilet pan where the cistern connects as any dirt can effect the seal later.
To make fitting the syphon easier you can split the water inlet valve. Now remove the C link that connects the lever to the Syphon.
Obtain a new sealing kit for the toilet, this is necessary to refit the cistern back to the toilet pan.
Remove the rubber donut washer, then Using water pump pliers undo the large nut at the bottom of the syphon. Remove the syphon from the cistern and clean it using a damp cloth. A clean cistern will ensure a good seal with the new syphon.
There will be a sealing washer and flanged nut with the syphon. DO NOT APPLY ANY SILICONE TO ANY SEALS!
Slide the rubber washer over the threads on the syphon.
Insert the syphon into the cistern, then attach the bolt holding plate at the other side. This is a two part syphon, so it has been split into two. The other half will be screwed back on later.
Using a measure check to make sure that the bolt holding plate is straight ( this will make fitting it to the toilet pan easier later) Screw the flanged nut up to the bolt holding plate, then draw around the plate using a permanent marker, this is so that you will notice if the bolt holding plate moves during the tightening of the flanged nut.
Tighten the nut using water pump pliers. The nut needs to be tight but don't apply too much force or you will crack the nut.
Push the new donut washer over the bottom of the syphon and slide the two bolts into the slots. Carefully place the cistern back onto the toilet pan.
Make sure any washers are placed on the bolts before the wing nuts, then tighten the wing nuts. Fix the cistern back to the wall ensuring and holes are sealed and cannot leak. Reconnect the water supply to the cistern and fill the cistern slowly whilst checking for leaks. Reconnect the overflow pipe (if there was one) Flush the toilet and check for leaks, then check for leaks some more.
If you have never had to replace one then this may be helpful;
Replacing a toilet syphon
Fitting a toilet syphon can be a time consuming job, hopefully these instructions will make the job much easier for anyone attempting to have a go themselves. Before replacing the syphon you should inspect the existing one as some syphon's are in two parts and can be split for servicing.
This is the toilet with the lid removed. Ensure you put the toilet lid in a safe place as they are easily broken! If you flush the toilet and occasionally it does not flush the first time this could mean that the syphon needs replacing. Firstly you need to isolate the water going to the toilet, this can be done locally via an isolation valve or by isolating the rising main
If the toilet still flushes give the handle a flush to empty the water out of the cistern. If the syphon is not working at all you need to ladle the water out using a suitable container. To get the last remaining water out of the bottom of the cistern you can use a sponge. Any water from the cistern can be emptied down the toilet pan.
Use either the correct sized spanner or an adjustable spanner and undo the nut that connects to the water inlet valve ( some water will drip out on removal ). The overflow pipe will also need disconnecting (if there is one).
Underneath the toilet there are two wing nuts that hold the cistern to the pan, these need removing. If the nuts will not undo you can saw them off with an hacksaw or even cut them off using an angle grinder.
Undo any fixings that are holding the cistern to the wall, then carefully lift the cistern clear of the toilet pan. Clean any debris from the toilet pan where the cistern connects as any dirt can effect the seal later.
To make fitting the syphon easier you can split the water inlet valve. Now remove the C link that connects the lever to the Syphon.
Obtain a new sealing kit for the toilet, this is necessary to refit the cistern back to the toilet pan.
Remove the rubber donut washer, then Using water pump pliers undo the large nut at the bottom of the syphon. Remove the syphon from the cistern and clean it using a damp cloth. A clean cistern will ensure a good seal with the new syphon.
There will be a sealing washer and flanged nut with the syphon. DO NOT APPLY ANY SILICONE TO ANY SEALS!
Slide the rubber washer over the threads on the syphon.
Insert the syphon into the cistern, then attach the bolt holding plate at the other side. This is a two part syphon, so it has been split into two. The other half will be screwed back on later.
Using a measure check to make sure that the bolt holding plate is straight ( this will make fitting it to the toilet pan easier later) Screw the flanged nut up to the bolt holding plate, then draw around the plate using a permanent marker, this is so that you will notice if the bolt holding plate moves during the tightening of the flanged nut.
Tighten the nut using water pump pliers. The nut needs to be tight but don't apply too much force or you will crack the nut.
Push the new donut washer over the bottom of the syphon and slide the two bolts into the slots. Carefully place the cistern back onto the toilet pan.
Make sure any washers are placed on the bolts before the wing nuts, then tighten the wing nuts. Fix the cistern back to the wall ensuring and holes are sealed and cannot leak. Reconnect the water supply to the cistern and fill the cistern slowly whilst checking for leaks. Reconnect the overflow pipe (if there was one) Flush the toilet and check for leaks, then check for leaks some more.
The last photo above shows a nice new wing nut.
Those encountered in practice are usually severely rusted often an angle grinder is need to remove them.
Also the screws holding the cistern to the wall can be badly rusted. Only solid brass screws should be used for this but you will usually find that ordinary steel screws have been used!
Tony
Those encountered in practice are usually severely rusted often an angle grinder is need to remove them.
Also the screws holding the cistern to the wall can be badly rusted. Only solid brass screws should be used for this but you will usually find that ordinary steel screws have been used!
Tony
Excellent post Mike but if I understood the OP correctly the wc flushes (full cistern) OK but does not clear the bowl contents until flushed 5 times. So Wez, put your angle grinder away for a moment and let us have a photo as Jeff suggested.You may still need all the above info but just not yet.
Thanks daveydub, the way I looked at the post was ( I assume) the flush was working ok but gradually it was taking longer to flush because the syphon couldn't deliver the force of water to clear the bowl .
Unless the OP has changed something, I guessed that the syphon has given up the ghost , either that or the inlet valve has got a bit of limescale in it and won't allow the cistern to fill to the max.
Whatever happens at least he has got some points to look at.
Mike
Unless the OP has changed something, I guessed that the syphon has given up the ghost , either that or the inlet valve has got a bit of limescale in it and won't allow the cistern to fill to the max.
Whatever happens at least he has got some points to look at.
Mike
Definitely not a siphonic Wes.
If the flush is strong and it doesn't back up into the pan I would suspect a misshapen sump. This would cause Rolling rather than flushing.
If the flush is strong and it doesn't back up into the pan I would suspect a misshapen sump. This would cause Rolling rather than flushing.
I bet any money that the clear bung on that turbo syphon has popped out causing half a flush,,,, scratch that I can see it ....... Look how much ****e is at the bottom of the cistern , syphon has prob picked that up
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As Danstace says, this is a possibility. It does look a new siphon in relation to your equipment.
You could convert to push button flush to give more efficient flush.
You could convert to push button flush to give more efficient flush.
Depends if it's a closed rim or open.
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