Portable generator produces 240v but not 110v

[Niscars]

Hi, my generator runs and produces 240v but when I switch it over to 110v I only get about 5v. Is there something obvious, to those in the know, that I should check please?

It's a Gardener Marshall Type SIT 210BS 3KVA. I got it second hand as spares or repair so I am delighted that it runs at all but getting the 110v socket working would be a bonus.

Thanks in advance,
Niscars

 

[Risteard]

Have you flicked the toggle switch to the 110V setting, and used the 110V socket-outlets provided?

 

[Niscars]

Have you flicked the toggle switch to the 110V setting, and used the 110V socket-outlets provided?

Yes, there are two outlets marked 240 and 110 with a switch between the two.
I can't find anything online yet about this particular issue. Loads of advice if it doesn't produce ANY power but not for my issue!

 

[plugwash]

I can't seem to find any information online about your particular generator.

Still I would guess that the generator has two windings that are hooked up in paralell in "110V" mode and parallel in "240V" mode and that there is some problem with the switching. Have you tried spraying switch cleaner in the switch and moving it back and forward repeatedly? Is it feasible to trace the wiring between the switch, sockets and actual generator?

 

[fluorescence]

I think 110v and 240v are separate taps from the generator usually. Best case scenario- you have a wiring or switching fault. Worst case- one of the windings inside the generator is faulty.

I've also seen instances of snapped-off connections at the tapping point within the generator before. If you're feeling brave enough, you could take it apart to see if this is the case and if it can be re-connected (after ruling out all the easier solutions first!)

 

[winston1]

I can't seem to find any information online about your particular generator.

Still I would guess that the generator has two windings that are hooked up in paralell in "110V" mode and parallel in "240V" mode and that there is some problem with the switching. Have you tried spraying switch cleaner in the switch and moving it back and forward repeatedly? Is it feasible to trace the wiring between the switch, sockets and actual generator?

How would that work? 110 is not half of 240 is it? And you did mean in series for 240v didn't you.

 

[plugwash]

How would that work? 110 is not half of 240 is it?

Close enough. If they really cared enough about the exact voltage to make one not half of the other they could add an extra tapping to one or both of the windings.

And you did mean in series for 240v didn't you.

Yes.

 

[ericmark]

I had a Honda generating set, I found it was two windings, one centre tapped, either series or parallel for 230 or 115 however the earth remained centre tapped, this resulted in 230 volt mode there was a 56.5 volt between neutral and earth, and no MCB or fuse to open should neutral and earth become shorted together.

So the user was asked which they wanted, 115 or 230 and the wiring was hard wired in this case so 115 volt only.

It is possible your generator had a similar design fault, and it has been modified for 230 volt only.

 

[SUNRAY]

Just liked a thread without realising it's 2½ years old

However I agree with Eric, I rewired a Kawasaki as it was 60V between N & E but that one didn't have a voltage change switch.

EDIT correction there was a switch but it switched between 240 & 110 OR 110 only

 

[plugwash]

EDIT correction there was a switch but it switched between 240 & 110 OR 110 only

I presume the 110 only mode reconfigured the windings in paralell allowing more power to be drawn from the 110 output.

 

[SUNRAY]

I presume the 110 only mode reconfigured the windings in paralell allowing more power to be drawn from the 110 output.

I assumed so, however if you can read my scribble (I had 3 goes at it by the look of this) there were actually 3 windings (assuming my resistance checks were correct) of 60,60,120V:

This had a shuko socket for 240V and flat pin socket like USA for 120V, however when in 120V mode the shuko was also 120V. The switch was labled something like; '240/120V to max current of 240V' & 120V to max current of 120V'
The final setup was simply wiring all 3 windings in series but earthing point to the Neutral pin and changing the USA socket for a blue Ceeform so there were dual outlets of 240V.

 

[SUNRAY]

I suppose the most obvious thing to do is google for the jenny. This is basically the setup but different sockets:

Courtesy of Ebay

 

[ericmark]

The one we had, two windings one centre tapped. The centre tap went to earth so in 230 volt mode it was 55 - 0 - 175 and in 110 volt mode 55 - 0 - 55. In the 110 volt mode not a problem, but the 55 volt line 2 to earth was not really a good idea.

The other set up I found on terminal 5 build was 110 - 0 - 110 no switch over just two 110 volt sockets, not centre tapped, and flood lights were 220 volt. Seems imported from USA. The 110 volt sockets had to be blanked off and just used as flood lights.

Generators we had on Falklands used links, not a change over switch, 12 windings, could be set 3 phase or zig zag single phase, 110 volt or 230 volt.

The problem is we assume if sold in UK it is to UK spec. But that is not the case.

 

[SUNRAY]

The one we had, two windings one centre tapped. The centre tap went to earth so in 230 volt mode it was 55 - 0 - 175 and in 110 volt mode 55 - 0 - 55. In the 110 volt mode not a problem, but the 55 volt line 2 to earth was not really a good idea.
...
The problem is we assume if sold in UK it is to UK spec. But that is not the case.

Yep that is the same arrangement as the Kawasaki except the centre tapped winding was 2 individual 55V windings

I imagine this was for a foreign market as it had a Shuko and a USA socket and I'm sure it was 240/120 but from a while ago I may have remembered it wrong. What I really disliked, other than the wrong earth point, was the Shuko being switched between 240 and 120
After modification: