Potterton Profile 100e - system or regular boiler?

[jagdeepp]

Hi dudes.

Having an extension done. My builder and plumber have told me that the boiler will need to be replaced. I have the Potterton Profile 100e. The boiler is to be shifted to the other end of the building and i'm told i have to have an A rated boiler.

Wondering which is best..
I have the Potterton Profile 100e. I can't work out whether its a system or regular boiler. Anyone have the answer?

I have 2 cisterns in the loft, a larger one and a smaller one. I have a cylinder by the boiler with a programme control thing next to it. I understand the boiler was set up in around the year 2000. I'm thinking it may be a regular boiler?

Would it be difficult to substitute the regular with a system boiler in terms of work for the plumber?

I have a 4 bedroom detached property with 2 bathrooms, 3 toilets and a total of around 12 radiators.

Any help appreciated. I've had suggested to me a 'Main' boiler which i'm told is essentially the Potterton rebranded? Valiant are pricey'ish. Any suggestions appreciated please please please...

 

[Agile]

Your problem is that you dont know the meaning of the words!

Its a heat only boiler because it does not include a pump.

Its a regular boiler because its not condensing! ( Hope thats right )

Its totally possible to just MOVE your boiler within your house!

You dont HAVE to replace it with an "A" rated boiler.

But if you do decide to replace it then my advise is to get an independent to do the work as builders usually do a bad job with boilers using unregistered people and without cleaning the system.

But it would be a good opportunity to fit a new boiler if the best make and model is chosen rather that a cheapo at an inflated price that your builder would be using.

To give you an idea most reasonable firms could replace it for about £1500 inc if it was in the same place. About £30 per metre to move it although that figure is very much of an approximation.

Tony

 

[bengasman]

Having an extension done. My builder and plumber have told me that the boiler will need to be replaced. I have the Potterton Profile 100e. The boiler is to be shifted to the other end of the building and i'm told i have to have an A rated boiler.

Bit of a grey area. For the kind of money involved, it's worth writing ( emailing ) Gas Safe Register with the question.
Builders don't have a clue.
His mate doing you a quote is biased.
The council don't have a clue.
GSR are unbiased ( sort of ) know the subject inside out and are free of charge to you.

 

[jagdeepp]

Having an extension done. My builder and plumber have told me that the boiler will need to be replaced. I have the Potterton Profile 100e. The boiler is to be shifted to the other end of the building and i'm told i have to have an A rated boiler.

Bit of a grey area. For the kind of money involved, it's worth writing ( emailing ) Gas Safe Register with the question.
Builders don't have a clue.
His mate doing you a quote is biased.
The council don't have a clue.
GSR are unbiased ( sort of ) know the subject inside out and are free of charge to you.

I dont think the mate giving me a quote is remotely biased simply as he was already on board to move the boiler from the outset and isn't charging me anymore to move it. Having looked at it the other day (vent seems to be at the rear rather than above to allow a horizontal flue through my flat roof) he suggested that he would not be in a position to certify his works for building regs purposes as the boiler isn't a rated... Not sure if that makes much sense to me either...

 

[jagdeepp]

Seems the installer was quite right:

Here's what i've found:

"If building and heating your extension means moving a boiler then you need to be aware that under building regulations, this is classed as a new installation. So it's not just as simple as moving your current boiler - if the boiler you want to move is not a High Efficiency boiler you will need a new one for your extension to conform to building regulations"

Back to square one then...

I'm guessing a system boiler is a better option as it will include the pump and pre tested components rather than relying on seperates?

 

[Agile]

Quotes carry no weight unless the source is mentioned.

Its generally considered that it IS possible to move an existing boiler.

However, in view of the age of your boiler its sensible to take the opportunity to replace it.

Tony

 

[bengasman]

Here's what i've found:

"If building and heating your extension means moving a boiler then you need to be aware that under building regulations, this is classed as a new installation. So it's not just as simple as moving your current boiler - if the boiler you want to move is not a High Efficiency boiler you will need a new one for your extension to conform to building regulations"

Where did you find that?

 

[Agile]

I'm guessing a system boiler is a better option as it will include the pump and pre tested components rather than relying on seperates?

That may be your guess, but...

It may be a convenient option but if you have to replace an external pump it will cost about £60-£70 whereas a manufacturer's spare pump will often be about £140 !

Just like cars they make money on the spares!

Tony

 

[DP]

The system you have is a HEAT only boiler. If the boiler had an internal pump, it WOULD STILL be a heat only boiler as either would need to be connected to a cylinder to heat water for use at hot taps. My understanding is a heat only boiler would also be known as a system boiler. As the system boiler has inbuilt expansion vessel, small tank in the loft is then redundant but the system runs at higher pressure that can find weaknesses in your system.

If you are replacing the boiler, then it make perfect sense to get the system cleaned (draining down is not system cleaning), splitting the living and sleeping areas into two zones with dedicated room thermostats and TRVs (in room that are naturally warmed by the sun). Installing an unvented cylinder gets rid of large storage tank in the loft (subject to mains pressure be adequate). If going for unvented, ensure cold feed is from the ‘balanced feed’ connection.

If elevated pressure not an issue, consider a combi of similar rating (28kwatts) to supply your hot water needs in the kitchen/ utility room, and boiler also takeing care of heating zones and unvented cylinder

As Tony suggests, look for a registered installer (check Gas Safe card for date etc and on reverse of card, category of work RGI can undertake). Talk to friends and family for recommendation. Builders (though not all) are notorious for poor quality, when heating installs are concerned.

Follow the manual that comes with the boiler and you cannot go wrong. Get the installer to complete the Benchmark logbook

 

[Agile]

Most boiler engineers will not work for builders.

They always want the job done very cheaply, try to avoid paying, and want proper procedures like cleaning the system to be left out.

Tony